Rome / Home II
January 28th, 2010
Rome / Home II
When I’m travelling, I always search for the book that will be a fine companion for that place. One of the best I’ve ever found is David Mayernik’s Timeless Cities: An Architect’s Reflections on Renaissance Italy. Rome, Venice, Florence and Pienza are his focus. During a February trip to Rome with my husband, Ed, and our friend Alberto, an architect, we read this aloud to each other as we sat in ruins, churches, and as we had our coffee at a different bar every morning. We all got a new sense of the city.
Mayernik starts with Romulus plowing with a cow and bull the outline for Rome’s perimeter walls, teaching us how to experience the city as a palace of memory. (The memory palace was a mental technique of storing knowledge before books were printed. These techniques have a fascinating and stirring history way too involved to go into here.) He explores connections among major building programs and monuments. The shape of Augustus’s tomb reflects the older Etruscan mounded tombs. Later, the shape of Hadrian’s tomb (now called Castel Sant’Angelo) echoes and remembers both. Even the massive dome of the Pantheon links to the Etruscan memory. In the renaissance, the echo still resounded. Bramante’s perfect tempietto, little circular temple built on the legendary hill of St. Peter’s martyrdom, cunningly recalls the Pantheon because Bramante built the tempietto in the exact diameter of the great oculus. It was a rainy day when the photo above was taken. That’s Alberto in front. Soon we will sit down with cappuccino and our book in the quintessential Roman bar where a vase of mimosa gathers to it what sun there is. At night, we’ll dine on little veal meat balls with artichokes, melted tomatoes, and grilled polenta. February is Rome for Romans–and lucky travellers. Such a feast, this city. For the mind, body, spirit.
Bramante went on to design St. Peters by overlapping, blending, and assembling components from the past. I wish I could paste in here the whole saga of Bramante. But if this intrigues, read the book. There’s an excerpt on www.davidmayernik.com
Knowing architectural connections, not just landmarks and their individual histories, gives you the power “to begin to read the whole city as a comprehensible story.” The city as a book—I love that concept.
well i’m only 1/2-way thru an early reading copy of “Every Day” and already regretting that it must soon come to an end – absolutely poetic – and does what all good books do…completely pulls you into the world of the writer and envelopes you
no need here to suspend your disbelief – brava!!!
I am waiting on my pre-ordered copy of “Every Day” and can’t wait for it to arrive! Also waiting on my next shipment of Bramasole olive oil – this is the 4th year I have participated in the convivium. Never disappointed!
My art group will be visiting Tuscany again in September 2010 and as usual we spend one day painting and visiting Cortona. This will be my fourth trip to Cortona. We are always looking out to see Ms. Mays in the Tuscan hills….hopefully this year we will encounter her there to properly thank her for serving as our inspriation for visiting Italy and loving most things Italian! Molti Molti Grazie!
I am very excited that another installment of my favorite literary opium — best taken in a warm tub with a cup of tea or glass of wine and a fragrant candle — will soon be on the shelves. Frances, no matter how dog-eared and worn the pages, your books never fail to transport me — both to Tuscany and to a more life-affirming state of mind.
While I may not have the time (or your knack) for creating your lush gardens or gorgeous dinners (I’m hoping that improves as the children get bigger and stop demanding Easy Mac), your words always inspire me to search out beauty in everyday life. My own version of Bramasole may have to wait, perhaps forever, but when I am immersed one of your books, the clamor of bills and homework and school lunches and book deadlines recedes into the middle distance. I find myself taking the time to plant and run my fingers through a fragrant, soft gray lavender, to look up at an apricot sunset, or to visit the local farmer’s market for a the wheel of fresh goat cheese and a basket of dusty, homegrown tomatoes. Reading your work always reminds me to both appreciate and create beauty in my own corner of the world, while dreaming and planning visits to others (we’re headed to Switzerland and Italy, including Tuscany, with my daughter this March). Your books are both lyrical and transformative: missives of beauty and hope.
I know you’ve heard it a million times before, but I’d like to add my voice to the chorus. Thank you for sharing your unique vision — and still being able to find your heart and your voice despite the pressures of fame and publication!
Now, to download some of those tempting recipes..
I absolutely love your books and have watched Under the Tuscan Sun at least 10 times!
My husband and I are thinking of visiting Italy in April/May this year and are undecided about what we should see. We have both been to Milan and the lake district so thought perhaps Rome, Venice and the Amalfi coast.(I would love to see Posetano since seeing your movie)It is extremely difficult to decide and I don’t believe in using travel agents – in South Africa they seem to book tours and stick to major tourist destinations. We have travelled a lot and like to see the real country and live and eat with the locals. I know that you are a busy lady but thought that I would ask you if you have any suggestions!
Many thanks for the wonderful stories – I found you at a time when I needed hope and beauty and you delivered in chunks.
Ciao Beryl–you can’t go wrong with Rome, Venice and the Amalfi coast–three of my absolute loves. I’d start in Venice and take a train South, maybe getting off a couple of times, depending on how much time you have. You didn’t mention Florence–an easy train trip from Venice, then there are high speed trains to Rome. Florence needs 2-3 days–or a lifetime! Rome is the greatest walking city and with an infinite number of must-sees. I like to find small trattorias in out of the way places and shop at the food market, even if it’s only for flowers for my hotel room. In Rome and Venice, see the sites but let yourself wander. You’ll escape the tourists and get more of a sense of the local life. Positano is died-and-gone-to-paradiso, as is all the Amalfi coast. Ravello is one of my favorites. And Capri. Most of the tourists leave by four so if you stay, you experience the island more directly. Would recommend staying at Anacapri. Again, one of the best places on earth to walk. Buon divertimento!
Hi Frances, I am a features writer for the magazine ‘Tuscany Unlimited’ and wondered if you would be interested in doing an interview with me for our ‘artist profile’ page?
On a personal level I love your writing and would like to thank you for your inspiring books. Sarah x
http://www.tuscanyunlimited.com
Sarah, I wrote to you at the info address on the magazine website. Hope you get it. Grazie! Frances
I am so glad to have found your blog. You are the reason that my husband and I planned our “trip of a lifetime” and spent this past September in Italy in celebration of our 25th wedding anniversary. We had a week in Prairiano where we could wake up and see the sun rising on Positano. We loved the food shops & restauants in Positano but preferred the slower pace of Prairiano. And you are absolutely right about Ravello! Did you get to dine at Cumpa Cosismo? We loved Netta and her delicious food.
On another stop we stayed with friends in Castelammare del Golfo Sicily (outside Palermo)where they too press their own olives for oil. We have a precious little bottle here in Winnipeg where wonderful things thrive and grow but never an olive.
I too am a blogger. My topic is food and especially how food is central to the celebration of life. I would be honoured if you would drop in http://www.foodmusings.ca. I can’t wait to read and cook from Every Day in Tuscany! Blessings. Kathryne
Kathryne–Just looked at your blog! Love the notebook format. We share MANY interests. So glad I influenced your trip. Prairiano is on my list. Ciao, bella!
I am looking forward to reading your new book! I have read all your books and my favorite movie is “Under the Tuscan Sun” I have been planning my road trip around Tuscany for a month and am ready to book the trip for this Fall. I can’t wait to see all I’v been reading about! Where is your favorite spot in Tuscany, besides your home?
Debbie–hard question! Florence in winter. Pienza for its architecture. Montalcino for landscape. Siena for its piazza. Sansepolcro for its hometown feel and great art. On and on. For your road trip, I’d suggest the most fun is getting lost. Have fun–Frances
Hello Frances & Ed,
Nice to see you have a blog now. Wonderful! Will be arriving in Cortona on May 8th. Hope to run across you and Ed in the Piazza. Hope you and Ed are enjoying your travels and of course I can’t wait to read your new book. Take Care and hope to see you in Cortona in May. Joseph
With the brothers??? See you in the piazza!
I have never been to Italy but by reading your books I feel that I have! Keep up the good work and I look forward to your new book out in March.
I enjoy your audios and I would like to know the name of the beautiful opening song (Disc 1) in the album Bringing Tuscany Home. I am registered for March dinner at the Left Bank. See you then. Trudi
Trudi–will have to check. Frances
Hi Frances, Sorry the brothers have other plans this year, however I bringing three of my best friends. Two have never been to Italy. I’ll look for you at Cafe Signorelli.
Joseph
That was so interesting. That book Timeless cities sounds terrific. I am an avid reader of everything. Never thought to travel with a particular book about that city. And that article about Rome and the memory of the city Fantastic
I am terrified to get on a plane but my husband keeps trying to lure me because he loves to travel and i wish i could just get over this fear. One place i have always wanted to go is Tuscany and i saw your book and thought I have to read that!!! I may find myself on that plane after all : )
photoquest(at)bellsouth(dot)net
Flying is not my favorite pastime either, although I’m in the air all the time. All I can say is that it’s worth it, once you’re on the ground in the other place. Go! – Frances
When I read your books, I feel like I am on a vacation of my own. It seems like feel the textures of each location through you writing.
These books makes one want to pick and and go and never look back.
Thank you for taking me places in the pages of your books that otherwise I’d never see. I feel as though I’m there from your gorgeous descriptions. Keep writing
Loved, Loved, Loved ‘Under The Tuscan Sun’! My alltime favorite book m& movie! Thank you!
I have only seen the movie Under the Tuscan Sun and loved it. I can’t wait to hear the memoirs that led up to the movie. And I want to explore this website- it is very pretty!
I have read your books and I have watched “Under the Tuscan Sun” so many times I have lost count! The scenery is beautiful. Bob Krist is a wonderful photographer and he has captured your words in photos. Beautiful. My husband and I are have been planning a trip to Italy for 3 years now. We will be celebrating our 25th anniversary in April of 2011. Unfortunately, he is now going on one year of being laid off from work so our dream trip is starting to look just that. . .a dream. But, I wanted to ask you, just in case it does become a reality, what your opinion is about going on escorted tours as opposed to going on your own. My plan all along has been to go for 2 weeks, one week in Rome, and another in Florence. I would think you could take a bus to Cortona from Florence and visit for a day? My thoughts have always been to rent an apartment as opposed to hotels. I’ve even been in contact with Lorenzo Lucani from Cortona. Any advice would help Ms. Hayes!
Miriam—Either way–depending on how you like to travel. Italy is easy to navigate on your own. I recommend the trains–they run all over and are convenient and reliable. Your plan sounds good to me. Hope you get to go!!! Frances
Mrs Mayes,
I am presently reading ” Every day in Tuscany … ” and it is with great pleasure that I continue to follow your descriptions about your life in Italy.
I have a question and I know that you are very busy so, if it is ever possible to answer, whenever you would have the time.
I am planning a trip to Arezzo and I am looking for paper shops with quality writing material. If you know of such shops and could share the information, I would appreciate it.
Merci,
Céline Berthelot
Celine–I don’t think there is a paper shop in Arezzo. But there is the giant antiques market on the first weekend of every month.
For paper–many shops in Florence. I like Parione, right off via Tournabuoni on via Parione. Also Venice, Gubbio, and Assisi have wonderful paper shops.
Mrs Mayes,
Thank you very much for the information about the paper shops and for taking the time to answer despite your busy schedule !
Grazie,
Céline
Thank you for your generous mention of Timeless Cities; hearing that you appreciated what I tried to do in the book makes it all worthwhile. My wife and I are in Rome, where I teach with Notre Dame’s program, but we’ll also be in Cortona over the last weekend of March. I hope our paths will cross sometime. Congratulations on your new book.
Tante belle cose,
David
Hi Frances,
I was wondering what the song is that plays in the last church scene while they say their vows in the movie. Would you happen to know it?
In “Everyday in Tuscany” you said there was another hill town that you might have settled in other than Cortona. Now I’m frantically going back through the pages trying to find the name. Help please.
Carol–It might have been Montisi, where we rented one summer. I change favorites frequently. Now I’m thinking I said Ascoli Piceno in the Marche. Trequanda, Lucignano, Citta di Castello (Umbria) are also favorites. Thanks for writing! Frances