A luscious sequel to Frances Mayes's bestselling memoirs Under the Tuscan Sun and Bella Tuscany. Read an Excerpt from Every Day in Tuscany.
Every Day In Tuscany
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February 2010

San Francisco Was Home

February 24th, 2010

San Francisco was home.

Not only San Francisco, but earlier, Palo Alto, and later, San Rafael.  Returning to California after my big move back to the South four years ago, the place feels so familiar that it seems I never left. We stayed at The Drisco in my old neighborhood.  When I lived in San Francisco, it was a hotel where genteel elderly people lived.  I used to walk by in the afternoons and see them in armchairs by the window, sipping their sherry under lamplight.  I thought when I was 95, I’d move there too, trading the sherry for a good brunello.

In the meantime, the hotel changed and has now a very European style. This is a gracious and comfortable place to stay in Pacific Heights, close to Fillmore and Sacramento Streets’ restaurants and shopping. http://www.hoteldrisco.com I always loved the neighborhood.  It smells of tea olive and when the afternoon wind arrives at three, the air is moist and salt-tinged.  San Francisco houses seem to each contain a novel.  This neighborhood is lined with Victorian, Craftsman, and Mediterranean beauties and they are so well-kept, polished and trimmed that I always have the illusion that nothing could go wrong inside those romantic and inviting spaces. Ed and I walked by our old house several times. It was yellow when we lived there, with white trim.  The rose I planted to swoop over the garage door has become gigantic.  I will not be the one to prune it.

The sound of San Francisco is the low bellows of fog horns.  Newly single, moving into the Victorian condominium with boxes all around me, I remember those mournful calls late that first night, sounding like a voice within the sea, some other-worldly, melancholy lament.  A tragic call to me then, but later, walking those streets with Ed, they began to sound mysterious and intimate, tied to the place.

These two days, time was short and I did not get to see many friends.  Peter, my agent and friend, took us to La Mar, a Peruvian place on the water. Check out the whole menu at : http://www.lamarcebicheria.com And I thought I didn’t like ceviche!  We ate four kinds, then causa casera, little purple potatoes filled with artichokes, asparagus, avocados—so fresh—drizzled with basil and cilantro in olive oil.  The beef empanadas were rich and flaky and the roasted scallops with corn risotto so nicely conceived.  Seasonings are tamarind, mint, chili peppers, sesame, all with a light hand. When I travelled to Peru in 1975 the highlight on every menu was guinea pig roasted with a stone inside.  The stone got hot and cooked from within.  Clever, but I passed.  Cuzco, I’ve been told, is dazzling today in terms of places to stay and eat.  It was always dazzling for its own reasons.  Los Rios Profundos, Deep Rivers by José María Arguedas is the book that was pulled from the heart of that place.

We had a lunch meeting at 54 Mint. http://www.54mint.com We were happy!  The food is truly Italian.  They got the pastas right!  I had one of my favorite Sicilian dishes, an arancino the size of a tennis ball.  Crispy rice filled with ragù. Claudio, one of the owners, came over to chat.  He’s Umbrian, where they know their pasta. This is a casual place for lunch, very San Franciscan but Italian, too. Here’s Ed’s seafood pasta.

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I first tasted arancini at the Palermo airport.  Sometimes I make small ones to serve with aperitivi.  Here’s the one at 54 Mint.

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The next day, we did squeeze in a lunch ($5.60!!) at Eliza’s, at 2877 California Street, right around the corner from our old house.  (I don’t find a website for them. Their original place on Potrero Hill is closed.)  This was one of our favorite haunts for Chinese food.  The joy of living in a city:  you walk out and the world of cuisines awaits.

We ended our stay with old friends at La Ciccia, a cozy, crowded Sardinian place. http://www.laciccia.com/ We just talked, talked, talked, ate all kinds of seafood, a cheese platter with hard-to-find pecorino cheeses, and drank a great sauvignon from the Alto Adige, whose name I have forgotten.  The whole wine list was Italian, with many new to me. La Mar is big, glamorous, city. The two Italian restaurants have owners right there to greet you and a highly personal cuisine.  Eliza’s  fresh Chinese is a city favorite.  We loved all four places.

So endeth a sweet visit to San Francisco.  The journey back to the east is long in time and space. Back to rain.  But at this minute, a brilliant cardinal perches on top of an astrolabe in my garden and the daffodils are swelling their yellow tips, ready to bloom.  I’ve cut wands of still-tight forsythia and plunked them in a Mason jar, forcing the moment of spring’s arrival.

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At the Wine Writers Symposium

February 18th, 2010

To leave North Carolina in the snow (after weeks of uncharacteristic cold), fly through Dallas in more snow, then to land in San Francisco and walk out to fresh warm air, then to drive to friends’ upright Victorian where they greet us with a house full of flowers and a dinner of Dungeness crab spritzed with lime–what a shock to the winterized mind.  Ed and I drove up to Napa the next morning. I came out to give the keynote welcome to the Wine Writers’ Symposium, organized by Jim Gordon, the team at Meadowood Inn, the Napa Vintners and Culinary Institute of America.  En route, more shock. The wild bright yellow mustard is blooming in the vineyards and rains have turned all the hills green, green, green.  Some vineyards are carpeted with golden poppies.  This forms a menace because people slam on brakes at a particularly gorgeous scene and someone leaps out of the car to take a picture. I, too, snap one from the car window but my phone camera is not up to capturing such glory.

Meadowood’s cottages scatter over hills studded with twisted oaks, madrone and mossy rocks.  Ours has a tree-house feel and a porch, a fireplace and a windowseat where I would like to sit and read all day.  Ed insists that we hike, even though there are signs warning of mountain lions.  He wants to swim and go to the spa and work-out room. I have a facial and can’t wait for it to be over. He has a massage and glows.  We dine on the grounds at  The Restaurant, which has been awarded two Michelin stars.  The food is quite conceptualized and very tasty. Each morsel arrives solo, to be admired visually then slowly savored.  There’s wit, too.  Four tiny radishes with their leaves arrive in a little square bowl of whey (or was it a grain?) and they look as though they are planted in sand. We both order golden tortellini. I loved the suckling pig in four guises, especially the bite of crusty confit.  Ed ordered the squid. If this sounds like a hearty meal–no.  The servings are quite restrained.    http://www.meadowood.com/wine-and-cuisine/the-restaurant/

Many of the participants at the conference are in transition or just in the process of creating writing opportunities for themselves.  As everyone knows, a lot of print has dried up and boundless as the internet is, making actual money there is hard.  At the symposium, there’s a focus on improving writing skills through one-to-one coaching with editors.   There’s also a lot of meeting / greeting and wine tasting.  There are dinners at wine country hot spots–so  many to choose from.  This is a far, far cry from the academic conferences I used to attend!  There we had jug wine and potato chips.  Here, they’re passing the lobster fritters and pouring the finest.

We slip away to have dinner with the Rothfelds.  Steven is the photographer I work with on my Chronicle Books yearly agenda and we did Bringing Tuscany Home together.  Since we’re always together in Italy, it’s a treat to dine at his home with his family.  Ah, Dungeness crab! It’s the season.

Write about what you know, teachers always said.  Italy is what I know and I’m talking to the group about how the sensibilty around food and wine differs from anywhere else on the planet. In Italy, wine is food.  Wine is not usually a thing in itself but always served with food. In Tuscany, when we go to a vineyard for tasting, a very full lunch is served. And the Italians are surprisingly moderate–they drink as much water as wine.  I spoke about the difficulty of describing taste.  Some of this I write about in my book that’s about to come out, Every Day in Tuscany.

Although I’m not on the writing staff here, I do have a little advice.  To get over writer’s block, go back and read something you’ve written before, something you like.  This helps reconnect with your own best voice.  And, to me, voice means more than anything else in making your writing distinctive.  My other hint: words, words, words, as Shakespeare said.  Collect words, keep a work notebook, scroll around the the dictionary.  Take what you’ve written and substitute a synonym for every noun, verb, adjective and adverb.  Then go back to the original and take into it, some of the fresher, more surprising language from your exercise.  I could go on and on.  I did teach poetry writing for 23 years! A lot of exercises actually do improve your work.

The afternoon session adjourns and we move to a reception with more Napa wines to taste.  Many are taking notes.  Then, a really fun time for me.  My new book has arrived–two weeks before actual pub date– and the publisher gives one to each participant.  In signing them, I get to meet so many bright and talented people.  New friends, old friends, a buzzing atmosphere, good food and wine—California dreamin’.

» Read More...

Why I Write

February 8th, 2010

Publisher’s Weekly invited me to send them a few paragraphs on “Why I Write.”  That’s an impossible subject, of course!  I think that the article features several writers but I haven’t been able to access the rest of the issue.  Here’s the link to my little essay:

http://www.publishersweekly.com/article/CA6717806.html?q=%22Frances+Mayes%22

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Read about chestnuts

February 4th, 2010

In the comments to my last post, Sarah wrote to me.  She’s from Tuscany Unlimited magazine in the UK. This was new to me so I looked it up: http://www.tuscanyunlimited.com If you’re Tuscany obsessed, you’ll want to check it out.  To read many of the full articles, you must subscribe.  Some are printed entire.  I was happy to see my friend, winemaker Riccardo Barrachi featured.  (You can buy his Ardito at many wine stores.)  I loved the chestnut article, “The Bread of Life.”  We gather chestnuts in early fall in Tuscany and use them to stuff a chicken, simmer in red wine, toast in the fireplace, or to make Monte Bianco, a grand dessert of chestnut puree and cream.  The article shows a chestnut festival.  We go to one as well and all the farmers dance and everyone eats cones of roasted chestnuts.  Those Tuscan farmers can really dance!

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Frances's Links:

The Tuscan Sun

Festival del Sole

Tuscan Sun Festival

At Home in Cortona

Travel Dynamics International

Laneventure

Wildwood Lamps

Drexel Heritage

www.broadwaybooks.com

www.crownpublishing.com

Steven Barclay Agency

Curtis Brown


Sites to See:

Tuesday Recipe

Steven Rothfeld

Bob Krist

Images by Al Hurley

2or3things.blogspot.com

Good Bones Great Pieces

Kim Sunee

Chef Robin White

Cannelle et Vanille

Borgo di Vagli

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