I Could Write a Book. . .
May 24th, 2010
The book someone should write: hidden Tuscany. I won’t. I don’t have the patience for details about hotels and restaurants and mileage from here to there. But Tuscany is pieno, full, of places of secret loveliness, interest, good food, and stunning landscape. People often say to me, “Tuscany is full of tourists.” Or, “We’ve been to Tuscany three times.” Tuscany is large and varied and if you had two lives you couldn’t begin to know it.
For example, the quick two-day trip Ed and I just took. Our friend Steven Rothfeld, the photographer, was with us when we took off for Marina di Bibona to eat at La Pineta. We headed toward Volterra, an austere and handsome little city with Etruscan roots, then through idyllic countryside—no traffic–to the coast.
Fish! Fish! We went in search of inspiration for cooking fish. (Did I say that Ed and I are working on a cookbook?) . At fish-mecca La Pineta, there’s a Michelin star–which in Italy often is awarded to something the French like because it seems French. La Pineta, instead, looks like a seafood shack on any beach. Twin waiters greeted us in the surprising formal dining room–right on the beach–and proceeded to stun us with course after course of the freshest seafood I can remember. The owner, Luciano Zazzeri, who was once a fisherman himself, came over to the table twice to make sure we were happy, and we were. Although it was lunch time, we quaffed the complimentary prosecco, a bottle of wine, and then the extra glass they offered. As we talked to Luciano about how amazed we were at the sweet, sweet shellfish and the delicate pastas, and the fritto misto, he told us about his cousins and friends in nearby Cecina, who dock on the river when they come in from the sea with the catch of the day. At La Pineta, here’s what I ordered:
After this sybaritic lunch, we checked into a modern, charmless hotel, which did have a pine forest on the sea. It seemed to be headquarters for German and Swiss bicyclists. They looked happy and rosy from their rides along the deserted roads where there are many umbrella pine and cypress lanes. In the afternoon, we loved wandering around Bolgheri and Castagneto Carducci. This area, with lots of sun and sea breezes, is ideal for wine. (Look for wines from this area–you can’t go wrong!) The poet Carducci wrote a poem about the staggeringly long cypress lane leading to Bolgheri. The trees were planted in 1801 and they look like gods–overpowering and majestic. You might be entering heaven, if hosts of angels greeted you at the end of the 5 KM. long avenue. Instead, there’s a low-key stone town, with a seated statue of Carducci’s grandmother. I sat down beside her and imagined that we had a chat. The countryside invites you to take small roads leading only to other small roads, with only the green countryside, chestnut copses, and hidden villas to entertain you.
Luciano recommended Zanzibar in San Vincenzo’s port for dinner. Again, we feasted on the freshest of fresh fish. We were seated in an airy alcove overlooking the boats in the harbor. Two men, both alone, were the other diners. In true Italian style they began to talk from adjacent tables and–perfect strangers–enjoyed an evening together, each intermittently talking on their phones and explaining that they’d met and apparently had much in common.
Early the next morning we were in Cecina among the dozen or so friendly men who’d just pulled in with their nets and were putting out on styrofoam trays small silvery fish, sea urchins, shrimp of many dimensions, something dire that looked like a cross between a snake and an eel–everything you need for a batch of fried fish, a stew, or a simply grilled fillet.
We drove on to Castiglione della Pescaia, walked around the medieval upper town and stopped for a fine lunch on the piazza at Pierbacco. I had big shrimp on a little lake of pureed chickpeas. We all tasted Steven’s grilled eggplant with caper sauce and slivers of parmigiano. Then we meandered down the street and tasted honey gelato with pine nuts.
So much one can see in such a short time. We drove back to Cortona via Monte Amiato, Tuscany’s highest point. From our mountain house, we can see this mystical extinct–let’s hope–volcano on the horizon. The slopes are dotted with tiny medieval villages and the views as you ascend are heart-stirring. We all longed to find a cozy inn and take long hikes with a big hunk of cheese and some rustic bread. Chestnut beer is a specialty here, as are all chestnut dishes. We’ll come back in the fall for the blue light at evening and the layers of hills.
Tuscany crowded? Off track of the grand sites, Tuscany remains idyllic and alluring. Many readers here know Tuscany well. Any favorite spots to suggest?
Just thought I would drop a note to tell you I picked up Under the Tuscan Sun for a bit of a comforting read. I have not left the country in over a year and wanted the opportunity to daydream about travel. (I alternate big trips with real estate purchases, and last year was real estate). Italy certainly lends itself to daydreams, doesn’t it? Of the dozens of countries I have visited, few apart from Italy can so instantly bring to the tongue the taste of the food and the air and the very essence of a place.
What a great fish trip that was. And so glad you are writing a cookbook.
You know, one of the best “cooking shows” I ever saw was one that Mario Batali did called “Mario Eats Italy”. It was very informative and inventive and sweet. Mario is very serious about food (I assume you already know him) and food in Italy especially but also very real and touching. I bet you two could do a great show together about food and life in Tuscany. I would certainly watch it – and would love to work on it, too – I am a post production person. Just what you need, more to do – and in make-up to boot!!
Anyway, I love that you have this website and I love seeing what you are doing and having fun with.
My husband and I almost bought a house in Umbria because of you, but the way things are in the economy I am glad we did not. I still travel those Italian road vicariously through your words. Please keep writing the words. While there is time.
cm
Hi Frances.
I love your posts when you write like this! Favorite spots in Tuscany? Sorry, I haven’t been there long enough to tell, though I had some wonderful days at Santa Maria in Ferrano in April. So far I’ve only written one blog post about it:
Looks like you’ve already started your Hidden Tuscany book
http://brittarnhildshouseinthewoods.typepad.com/brittarnhilds_house_in_th/2010/05/tuscany-hills-in-the-mist.html , but there will be more posts to come.
My dream, or one of them, is to write a book about Hidden Venice. Like you describe about Tuscany, it is also so easy to explore Venice, even in the middle of the tourist season without walking crowdy calles. This time I stayed in a small flat out on Murano. It was so quiet that when I came to the flat around 10 one night and my key didn’t work, I almost panicked as there were no people around to help me.I wrote a blog post about that as well, but I guess I can’t go on linking to my blog here
Enjoy the Tuscan summer. We are still waiting for summer to arrive here in Norway, and we are making plans for Italian friends to visit us the coming months.
Hi Frances:
I’m happy I found your blog. I’ve read and enjoyed your books very much. I especially loved the chapter on the Alfonso’s in your newest book. Alberto is in my new architecture book “Four Florida Moderns.” I’ve listed you blog on both of mine: Roaming By Design http://bit.ly/aAc7Le and The Road to Promise http://bit.ly/czIbbt -thanks for keeping the wonderful writing coming!
Greetings from New Zealand. I am so happy you visited Cecina – I had a lovely holiday there a few years ago staying with a friend who now lives in Italy. That part of Tuscany is gorgeous, off the tourist trail and I had a very happy month there.
I look forward to the next book.
Kind regards,
Marion
Indeed, you could write a book. Or better yet, you can extend your arm for us to cleave to while we journey along to see the beauty, smell the fragrances, engage in smiles and buongiornos, experience fantastic cuisine, and sit awhile in the piazza hearing the peal of the bells. And there is more, so much more!
As I’ve done with all of your books, I’m reading with the hope that the journey will never end. Thank you for taking us along!
~ sherry
Dear Frances,
you and your books are the reason for me and my familiy to vistit Toskana and Cortona. Last year we stayed in Riparbella near Cecina in a little house on the hills.
This time, from may-8 until may-22 we lived in a house in a litttle village (Ca´di Massino) near Cortona. We could sea the famos old town, when we go for a walk with us two Tebetian Terriers.
Thanks for your books and this blog!
If you like, You can see photos from us here: http://bhasita.jimdo.com .
The day, you arrived, we was in Siena!
Greetings
Heidi
Just yesterday, I finished Bella Tuscany and reluctantly put it aside knowing I will miss the warmth of the Italin sun and the friends I found there. Like you, I teach, and a passion runs in me to create and soak up life. I find myself returning to Italy over and over again to lose myself in the endless art, architecture, food, and people. I’ve spent time at a friend’s villa in Umbria just outside Monte Castillo de Vibbio. Nothing is closer to heaven for me than to meander through the weekday markets, cappiccino in hand and a few Euros in my pocket, to eventually find a good spot for people watching and basking the sun. I don’t want to be like the many who exclaim that, after reading your book, inspirition to drop everything and move to Italy has overtaken them. My obsession has been one to burn slowly but steadily. My husband, 9 year old daughter and I are planning on moving to Italy soon. Our focus now is HOW to live there. I wish I could write like you; I would take up the pen to undertake the Hidden Tuscany idea in a minute, if I could make a living while doing it. I have taught high school English and Art for 15 years, earning my MLA along the way. Many years ago, I was hired to teach at an International School in Malaysia, only for the position to fall through. I’m thinking about the International school avenue again. Do you have any advice? I have found much information online about teaching at the language institutes there. Fear is threatening to weaken my resolve. But I am arming myself with preparation…we are starting Italian classes soon. Please kindly share any advice, Julie
In my excitement to share my passion for Bella Italia, I forgot to include some of my favs in my last post. I spend most of my time in Umbria, so there may be a few new loves for you here:
Visit http://www.todiartefestival.it for more info. In the Piazza del Popolo, weekly market is held with a special flair for antiques. I always find myself languishing on the tall stairs in front of the main church, just sipping my coffee and watching Italian life stroll by. To catch a truly memorable view of the green Umbrian hills hugging the city, climb to the top of the bell tower, that is if you can finagle the key from one of the priests, as we did. For the best example of Renaissance art in Umbria, check out the temple of Santa Maria Della Consolozione. During warm summer months, nighttime entertainment is easy to find in the plaza’s many restaurants, but here are a few of my favorites:
For a good laugh, order the meat boat during lunch or dinner from The Galleon while you are in Marsciano. I don’t want to ruin the surprise, but it IS a boat made out of MEAT. Yum! Another excellent restaurant in the area is Oasi on V. Marcurischio 1-06055 telephone: 075-8743532.
1. Monte Castello di Vibbio: amazing little medieval town on top of a hill that is the view from my friend’s home. In Hotel Il Castello, an amazing restaurant pours wine graciously and serves a memorable beef polenta. The view gazes down the valley past rolling hills of terraced farms and sunflower fields.
2. Todi: a jewel of a town with an amazing art festival in July that lasts 9 days officially, but musicians and artists perform all month.
Umbria (dinner) on Via S. Bonaventura 06059
telephone: 075-8942737
Le Scalette (dinnerP on Via Delle Scalette 1-06059
telephone: 075-8942694
Fratta Todina Restaurant and Taverna (dinner)
3. Marsciano: The town itself may seem like every other small Italian town, but I spent quite a bit of time here shopping for necessities, as my friend’s home is close by. One of my favorite restaurants that I happened to find by accident is the Museum Bar. The owners are locals who once lived in Canada; after we asked about the pasta, the wife/cook brought us into her kitchen and began a play by play on how to make ravioli the “right way.” Being Texans ourselves, she shared her husband’s love of chili. Plate after plate of delicious concoctions were delivered to our table of the freshest pasta I have ever placed in my mouth. After we returned to Texas, I dropped a chili kit in the mail for her husband.
4. Deruta: Ah, a town I love, as a potter and ceramic artist/teacher. I could languish the day away (and I have) wandering from shop to shop. But, don’t get caught up in the shopping centre just off the autostrada, keep on going until you drive into the old city. La Fontanina (lunch and dinner) is a good option. On V. Solitaria 14/A/1-06053. Telephone: 075-9724033.
5. Gubbio-Gubbio, the most medieval of Umbrian towns, is a festival kind of town, and one of my favorites. It is itself, and no other is quite like it. The drive there winds among the most beautiful vistas and steep valleys. I happened upon Gubbio, the day after the famous racing of the saints through the medieval streets. Lucky for me, my red dress sported the color of the winning team, and I have never relished in as many toasts, random hugs, and flirty smiles as that day! Oh, I love Gubbio! This festival every May, The Corso dei Ceri, trickles down through Pagan roots and still endures, thankfully. A Roman Amphitheatre, largely intact, still hosts plays in during the summer months. If visiting Gubbio, visitors must opt to squeeze themselves into the tight metal cages of the funicular that transports to the top of Mt. Ingino to pay respects to poor St. Ubaldo who rests in a glass coffin for all to view. If dangling in the air in a cage isn’t your thing, hike the somewhat challenging path to the top of the mountain where a much-needed refreshment is waiting at the bar. Weekly market day is Tuesday, and the last Sunday of the month boasts an amazing antiques market. In December the locals temporarily lose their sense of taste and light the world’s largest Christmas tree, a monstrous outline of a tree that encompasses the entire mountain side.
6. Orvieto–Other than gazing at Santa Maria sparkling in the Umbrian afternoon sun, climb to the top of the bell tower further in town, but don’t forget to pay. They will chase you down for a Euro. Some of my favorite shops lay hidden in the recesses of Orvieto’s charming streets.
7. Perugia: To enter the city in a unforgettable manner, follow these directions: Follow the signs to the city center and the parking lot titled Partigiana. Park in the garage and follow the directions to the escalator. Arriving to the city in this manner will bring you, via escalator, up through the city ruins that lay underneath the modern city. While sliding along the escalator, you will pass through abandoned city streets and secret rooms. If the Gods are with you, like they were with me there on my 1st visit, you will rise to the unmistakable smell of cheese. Oh the joy! To accidentally find a wine and cheese festival in the ruins of Perugia. Well, I didn’t see much of the city that night . . . . Also, in the summer the city hosts a huge Jazz fesival!
8. Montefalco: one word….wine. Their most proud vintage, Sagrantino di Montefalco. In the main piazza, find L’Alchimista, a lovely enoteca that sells the most delicious Italian essentials. 14 Piazza del Comune. If you are serious about wine, local Paolo Bea is a favorite of mine and is only sold there. One of the best luches I have had in all of Umbria was at Enoteca Il Verzier, and it was ridiciously inexpensive. Our meal, served with complementary champagne and antipasto, ended with a choice of limoncello or grappa.
9. Spello: Giardino panoramico has an amazing little coffee bar with a memorable view. it is located on Via Garibaldi.
10. Norcia: Most known for its pork market, Norcia is in the shadows of the Sibillini Mountain. Here, some family fun is to be had. Hiking, river rafting and other outdoor activities will entertain everyone.
11. Torgiano: Probably the most vital of all tourist information in Italy is the location of the best gelato. By my estimation and with much sampling and a “no gelato left behind” state of mind, I found the best gelato in Umbria to reside in Torgiano at the Gelateria Artigiamale. Notice the word “art” in the title? While in Torgiano, visitors must sample their local red, aptly known as Torgiano’s rosso.
12. Terni: Last of my reccommendations is Terni. Take a day away from the vino and trattorias to walk off all the calories at Cascala de Marmore (the Marmore waterfalls). Or, do as I do, and go have gelato and dinner AFTER the hike, as a reward for all your efforts of course. The waterfall, designed ages ago to divert the water from the swampy marsh land, is turned on only once a day. With spectatular drama the icy clean Etrucian water pours over the cliffside and plunges hundreds of feet below. Tourists and locals alike hike down the falls along series of decks and paths to peek timidly inside ancient caves and tunnels. At the base of the falls, a picnic area and white water rafting center are located.
Dear Ms. Mayes: I am in the final pages of “Bella Tuscany” and it is like getting ready to leave a good friend. I’ve read it several times over the years and it has reinforced the need to ’seize the moment.’ My wife and I are planning a trip in the fall of 2012 to Tuscany–on the heels of my much-anticipated retirement from academia–and we are enjoying the planning part probably as much as the trip itself. The stuff that dreams are made of–and we both like to dream. Thanks again for your wonderful books. They’ve painted beautiful pictures of Tuscan life and of enjoying each day and I’m happy to embrace these concepts day after day. Best wishes: Scott
Dear Frances!
Thanks for all the wonderful moments while reading your books.
C.a seven years ago I was looking for something to read and in my hands came three jewels, books that I have read again and again:A Tuscan childhood by Kinta Beevor and your Under the Tuscan sun and Bella Tuscany.
In 2005 I and my big family of seventeen(two could not come along)went there.
we stayed at a big farm near Volterra but of course we went to Cortona.
My grandchildren were aged from four to twenty two,they loved the food, the sights and I beleeve that the older ones vere a bit touched by the obvious marks of the saga.Now i am reading A Year in the World ,and I feel like trawelling with you though just sitting in my chair.
I was very happy to find your website and blog,especially on a day like today when the ash from the eruption blurs the sun and view, one hardly sees the houses across the bey.But better times will occur in Iceland.
My best whishes and thanks to you and of course to your ever present and pleasant Ed.
hello. frances mayes i read your book UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN & currently reading A YEAR IN THE WORLD. I want to publish a book( possibly w/o an agent)and I was wondering how you published your books and how did your find an agent.
Genial brief and this post helped me alot in my college assignement. Gratefulness you on your information.
Dear Frances,
I studied art with the University of Georgia and lived in Cortona about 1974. It has touched my life so much and is with me everyday!!!I lived on the hill in the monistery and walked those steep hill daily. I was lucky enough to revisit Cortona about 5 years ago and even saw some of my Italian friends still living there. I actually had the pleasure of meeting you while I was living in Cortona. What memories!!!!
For my book club we have read Every Day in Tuscany and I look forward to hosting it Weds night June 16th. If you have any suggestions or comments I’d love to hear back from you.
Have a wonderful summer there.
Grazie! Jill
Dear Frances
I am enjoying Under the Tuscan Sun after seeing the movie and visiting Tuscany. A few years ago, I went to Barga, where my great-grandparents originated. That was the trip of a lifetime! Have you been to Barga? Another beautiful mountain-top town. One thing I loved about Italy was the sense of relaxation we felt. And the wonderful vegetables and cheeses and of course the scenery and art and architecture. Oddly, I felt a sense of familiarity when I went in Barga’s hill top cathedral and touched the marble pews.
Also I wanted to comment–I recently read an interview with you where you compared living in the South to Italy. Well, two years ago I moved to Georgia and I feel like a warm climate like this is more true to my Italian roots than chilly New England ever was!
Liz