Dolphins on the Port Side
June 5th, 2010
At lunch on the deck, someone spotted three dolphins leaping out of the waves. Everyone abandoned their plates and leaned on the rails, hoping to see them but we saw only the water, so calm that the reflections of clouds slid over the blue, blue surface. Maybe the tuna on the grill (dolphin fish?) sent out some signal to brethren still free. The seared fish was delicious, as were the roasted vegetables and fruit. Today we are “at sea” all day, having slipped out of the port of Palermo around midnight.
I am aboard a small ship, the Corinthian II, “working” as a guest lecturer on a sweep around the blessed Mediterranean. We sailed out of Civitavecchia, near Rome, and stopped first in Naples, a city Ed and I love. While everyone toured Pompeii and the great museum (we’ve been many times), we simply walked for our dose of street theatre. Naples jolts all the senses. So many spontaneous conversations happen, so much noise, music, traffic. Grime and glory—that’s Naples.
This Travel Dynamics trip emphasizes music art, history and food. What a treat—a 75-person group, fabulous ports of call, and interesting events on board. Before arriving in Sicily, for example, we heard a lecture on the spotted, complex history of the island, then I spoke on understanding the place through two of its writers, Giuseppe did Lampedusa and Leonardo Sciascia. In Naples, our resident musicians performed Scarlatti, Donizetti, and Verdi at the Museo Diocesiano. Tomorrow, we dock at Lerici and will visit Puccini’s home then hear a concert at the Oratorio di San Giovanni in Lucca. In port, Ed and I often will wander off on our own. The sense of discovery I seek in travel is best accomplished by turning off on side streets.
Meanwhile, we’re at sea. I spoke today on one of my favorite subjects, food in these Mediterranean lands. The company is convivial. I’ve had the pleasure of reconnecting with a college friend who happens to be on board. There’s no end to the great people one can meet in life and that’s a joy—always the prospect of a new friend.
The great sensation is the sea: the horizon line straight as though drawn by a lapis-colored pencil, the shushing sound as the boat glides forward, moonlight’s silver path, and then just the feeling of enormity and a sense of connection with the old navigators who set sail toward unknown lands. I wonder if my fellow passengers feel, as I do, a knot of sadness looking out at such stupendous beauty, knowing that hideous black oil is shooting into the gorgeous waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Now and then I glimpse a plastic bottle and rage hits me again.
I would like to post photos, especially of the color of the water! But the internet is drastically slow so that must wait. Now off to a lecture on painters in Provence, just around the big land curve. Nice, Marseilles, Barcelona. Much to anticipate.
Hi Frances & Ed, Really enjoyed your new book. Spent two rainy weeks in Cortona, but still had some great adventures seaking out new hilltowns. Got to see the main church in Orievto (Sp) this trip and had a grand time in Pienza buying pecorino cheese and wild boar salami. Had some spectacular wines and cooking at the house was a blast now that I can find everything I need. Went to the butcher shop in Cortona and bought two large florentine steaks for my friends to try. The butcher was fantastic, he asked” Are you feeding all of Cortona this evening”. Saw all of my old friends in Cortona. It was great despite the rain. By the way have you and Ed tried Bar 500?, Emma and Robert were wonderful and of course Claudio at Bar Signorelli was his usual comic self. Sure missed seeing you in the Piazza ! Hope to return in September with my brothers for at least another week. Just saw the movie “Letters to Juliet” fantastic… Ciao for now. Joseph
Sorry I missed you–we were off on a cruise around the Mediterranean.
Joseph, guess you were here while I was cruising. Glad you had fun–Frances
Hope you have a wonderful trip..sailing is our favorite mode of travel, except for our days in Italy. As the oil continues to ravage the Gulf, all we can do is pray for success in capping this disaster. Thank you for the joy your new book gave me on my recent vacation. Nothing better than a great book, a beach and glass of wine. Safe Travels…Best wishes to you and Ed, Marcie Byers-Gunkel
While reading of your wonderful trip through the Mediterranean I couldn’t help but think of the tragedy that is unfolding in the Gulf of Mexico. Frances I look forward to reading the books on the South that you are planning. I hope that your words will bring our region to life as you have done for Italy. I have been to Italy twice. Once with my Mother in the 1970’s and then again with my son three years ago. It is such a beautiful country and has so much depth.
While reading your latest book, I could relate to the changes you spoke of in regard to financial circumstances. My husband was laid off eight months ago and of course the economy is not showing the signs of recovery that they speak of. We purchased land in Elijay Georgia (Carters Lake) several years ago hoping to build our dream home. Not sure if that will take place now but we are still hoping.
We spent our latest vacation walking our own city (Tampa). Quite often people fail to tour their own area. They have been working on a new riverwalk and of course new museums in the downtown area. I couldn’t help but feel that they seemed cold and unused. Not the inviting atmosphere we had hoped for. We are familiar with your friends in this area (my husband did work for them many years ago) so you may know of what I am speaking. I couldn’t help wishing that we had the feel and character of those Tuscan towns. The warmth and character. It may be that Tampa is not old enough. That (like in the movie Blindside) Italy is like an onion we can peel away the layers.
Good luck with Montelauro. It is so intriguing. Hopefully Andrea Bocelli with be there to help with the celebration. Thank you for all that you do for all of us.
Linda (Tampa)
Frances, I have just looked at your blog, the address sent to me by Joanie, and enjoyed it thoroughly. Will try to get to it more often.
Hal and I often see pods of dolphins in our waters while we are boating here around Norfolk, Virginia: always a thrill. Just to assure you, these are mammals, and not the same creature(a fish) that you are eating grilled, though it has the same name !
I remember so well the schools of real dolphins I loved to spot off the coast of GA when I was a child. Nice to know you still see them??
It sounds wonderful! I hope the rest of your journey is just as lovely. Yes, I’m also saddened by the Gulf oil tragedy. A helpless feeling. Let’s hope a lesson has been learned by those you caused this.
Thank you again for speaking at Powell’s in Beaverton, Oregon, a few months ago. It was a pleasure to meet you. I have greatly enjoyed all your books about life in Italy. Looking forward to your cookbook!
Ciao – Kate
Hi Frances
I am not responding to your blog entry entitled ‘Dolphins…’ but I would like to ask for your help on something…?
I have recently moved to the Asti region and my husband and I are struggling to get rid of blackberries. I remember when I read your books that you also had a blackberry problem when you first bought Bramasole.
Since I can’t remember exactly how you got rid of them, can you please tell me? Any advice on how to get rid of them would be much appreciated…I don’t particularly want to use chemicals/poisons…
Cheers
Cath
Dig!!! And even then they return. Make blackberry jam and then blackberry crostata–see recipe in Every Day in Tuscany??
Cath–blackberries are immortal! Dig them out and somehow they pop up somewhere else. After many years they migrated up the hill where we can take back some pleasure from them in early September–blackberry jam. Frances
Grazie for taking us along on this dreamy cruise. Everything sounds ideal–grilled tuna, Naples street theatre, the way you write about the “great sensation of the sea”! And oh how we all appreciate the vision of clear waters–inspiring us to do whatever we can to protect our beautiful oceans, to learn from this tragedy.
Glad you’re having such a nice trip. Please post photographs when you’re able.
Dear Frances,
Your current trip sounds fabulous! I just finished watching “Under the Tuscan Sun” and I’m starting to re-read the book. I visited Florence while studying abroad my Junior year of college in May 2006. I was only there for five weeks, but completely fell in love. I am looking to relocate in September and do freelance writing, photography, or possibly teach English. Basically, the last time I was truly happy was when I was in Italy and that was four years ago. I need to get back there and I don’t care what I have to do while I’m there: work in a coffee shop, sweep the streets, anything. Whether it’s getting a student visa to learn more Italian and work somewhere part-time or be an au-pair, I will do anything to get back there. I’m just looking for someone to give me some advice. I hope to hear from you. Thank you so much.
Take care,
Rhiannon Falzone
p.s. So you know I’m not some random person emailing for no reason, the following is a piece I wrote about Florence the semester I came home. It was published in a cultural magazine at my college, the University of Illinois-Chicago.
Return to Me
Rhiannon Falzone
A place belongs forever to whoever claims it hardest, remembers it most obsessively, wrenches it from itself, shapes it, renders it, loves it so radically that he remakes it in his own image.
-Joan Didion
For me, this place is Florence.
I can remember, with a clarity that makes my heart ache, how everything made me feel. All of it.
I miss every single thing about it. I miss it the way you come to know and love and miss someone who knows every fiber of who you are. I have never been in love, not with a human being, but if places count, and they should, then Florence is the love of my life. Until I find a man who dares venture into my weird, little world, I have Florence, who took me as I was: broken, alone, afraid, and thousands of miles from home. The city knew me and took care of me. It knew when I needed to be held because there was no one else there to do it. My second night there, lying on the bathroom floor, the only cool place in the apartment. Sick from the flu I caught from the three planes it took to get me there. Scared because a cold tile floor in a foreign country I had been in for twenty four hours was the only comfort I had at four in the morning. It knew when to push me. When to say, “Stop hiding on the terrace to call home. This is your home for the next five
weeks. Make this your home.” And I did.
I miss wandering the cobblestone streets every single day, early in the
morning when I’d go get a newspaper and coffee and sit with my dictionary and struggle to decipher at least one article. After dinner when I would sit by the river and ask Dean to sing to me. Night after night. There are no cobblestone streets in downtown Chicago. And “Return to Me” doesn’t feel the same sitting by the Chicago River.
I miss being in a place where everyone but the drivers understood the
concept of “slowing down.” Trying to grasp the idea of not hurrying through a dinner. The people sit at the table for hours there. It seems only on particularly cold and miserable days in Chicago, when the city feels like it’s breaking, that we’re forced to slow down. Because we have to. We should be stopped by some beautiful force far more often.
I miss the way the words rolled off people’s tongues like poetry. I tried
my best to only speak Italian wherever I went. I practiced in the shower, while cooking, at the market. I tried extra hard at the market after realizing how similar Spanish and Italian were. I was okay with looking like the dumb American, as long as they saw me as the dumb American trying to speak their beautiful language in their beautiful land.
I miss my apartment. The sixty one steps to our front door. Our terrace. That terrace was a gift. A place where Miles Davis, dark chocolate, and white wine were all I needed. I could see forever, whichever way I turned my head. A place I could dry my underwear and write and fall in love with the sounds of the city. The bells of the Maria Novella. People laughing at the outdoor restaurant thirty feet away. Motorinos going by so fast they must have been flying. The sounds of my apartment. The neighbors below us who had a dog, who would gasp for breath after being taken out into the oven that was Florence. We would keep our kitchen window open, which brought us the breeze from the street. I could hear him pant from the bottom floor. The woman with the dog below us played pretty music a lot at night, always reminding me of “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” The old married couple on the second floor. One morning, I saw him leaving and she was saying goodbye to him. I smiled and said, “Ciao,” and he said it back to me. Then, I said it to her. She was in her nightgown and it was around noon and she waited for him. Until he was down the stairs and she heard the front door close.
I can’t forget it. I pray I never forget it.
Thanks so much for the memories you shared! Advice? None, really, but people like you do seem to work things out here. With the tight restrictions now on foreign workers, it’s tough. But tour guides, English teachers, au pairs, restaurant workers–all seem to find SOME way. Good luck and let me know what you come up with!
I am reading Every Day in Tuscany and enjoying it immensely, as I have done with other books by Frances Mayes. I have written my own review and self-reflection at http://frenchaccent.wordpress.com/2010/06/08/every-day-in-tuscany/. Thank you Frances.
Whew!!! Complex response. So sorry that your impressions were negative. I just had the same response to Nice and my husband, who went out later and to different parts, had a totally different sense of the place. Maybe it’s the old tale of who has their hands on different parts of the elephant! We just returned to Tuscany and remarked on the last leg home, Why do we ever go anywhere else.
Hi Frances,
I’m in Destin, Florida and as of today, June 7, no oil has reached us. We’re hoping the leak will be capped this week.
I miss being in Tuscany. I’m usually there in Barberino val d’Elsa (between Tavernalle and Poggibonsi) from May to October but must remain close to my mother in the season of her illness. Mother will soon be gone, but Italy will remain as it is forever!
I’ve just completed “Every Day In Tuscany” and must now wipe my tears from the pages where you and I shared our love for Tuscany (that would be most all of the book). I’ll miss seeing you at Festival del Sole almost as much as I’ll miss seeing Andrea Bocelli at Lajatico on July 24…(sorriso)
Enjoy Lucca and Puccini’s home. As I recall, he is, or was once entombed in the family chapel wall adjacent to his piano in the adjoining room. Confirm that on your visit.
Arrivederci,
Ken
Yes, amazing. We heard a concert of his music in situ. Memorable!
‘Every Day in Tuscany’ arrived, delivered by the postman just now. I was rereading ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ while I waited, a book that has been a bible of sorts since I bought it while still living back home in New Zealand. Your first book has taken me through many house moves, and was the only book I carried when I moved to Turkey. Now here in Belgium, I have your latest piece of exquisiteness. Thank you for continuing to write of your world.
And now I find a blog when searching for a link to your book! Huge smiles here.
Travel safe and thank you!!
Just finished reading Every Day in Tuscany. Loved it! Quick question: On page 208 is there a mis-print? You write about watching “two men collide on a motorini,pick themselves us…shouldn’t it be pick themselves up?
Keep on writing.
Safe journey,
Patti Zagarino Bradley
Thanks for catching this error–it will be corrected in future editions. Maddening how you proof and proof, and so does the editorial board, and still these awful mistakes creep in!!
Beautifully written.
While you were watching the dolphins I was out on a small fishing boat on the North Sea. And like you I hade the oil catastrophy in the Mexico Gulf in my mind while I lived my “fairy tale”.
http://brittarnhildshouseinthewoods.typepad.com/brittarnhilds_house_in_th/2010/06/i-eventyret-let-me-take-you-into-the-fairy-tale.html
Just finished reading Ëvery day in Tuscany” Just loved it, I have been an avid follower of yours for some years now, have all your books, and when I visit Italy it just takes my breathe away, another trip planned for Sept this year, can’t wait. I will reread some of your earlier books and pick more hots not yet covered. You have certainly contributed to many beautiful places visited and friendships secured.
Caio – Looking forward to another book
Frances Mayes, I adore your books. Sadly, I have missed all of the speaking engagements you have had in my town of G’ville. Curious, what were your impressions of Barcelona?
Maria
Barcelona in the rain was quite pretty. It’s a city of tremendous energy. Somehow, I’ve never warmed to it though, and I’m not sure why. What are your thoughts? Frances
I agree, Barcelona has a very rapid pulse. I had no problem stepping into the rhythm but I went there seeking a fast dance. I will say that I never felt like I found the “soul” of the city. It promises to be around every corner, especially in the Barri Gotic, yet it is quite elusive. However, I enjoyed it enough to know I will search again.
Maria
I just wanted to say a brief “Thank you” from us in the beautiful Gulf of Mexico, remembering us as we endure the news day in and day out. It is disheartening and truly makes you sick to your soul to know that these “world’s most beautiful beaches” are going to be ruined forever (at least for many of us in this generation and maybe the next) (i.e the Exxon Valdez).
Enjoyed reading your blog and again, “thank you” – from the myself and the citizens of the beautiful State of Alabama.
Kathy–the news continues to horrify–today the Times says twice as much oil spills than previously reported. This is SO unacceptable and we do not deserve it. Best to you–Frances
I’ve been a fan of yours since I opened Under The Tuscan Sun and have continued reading all of your publications. In my blog post today,”It’ Not Multitasking Or Is It?”, I even quoted your description of multitasking as mentioned in Every Day In Tuscany. However, reading your words about the dolphins and the tuna generated a pang of sadness and anger for what we are experiencing here in my native state of Louisiana. In the spirit of multitasking, I included a little about my feelings in response to the oil spill which you may find of interest. Here is the link http://www.casartcoverings.com/casartblog/
Dear Frances,
I was a student in Cortona through the University of Georgia Study Abroad Program and was lucky enough to have met you on the streets of Cortona. Your books take me back to Cortona and I remember all the life thats being lived and I really miss it there. It was truly the most memorable and wonderful time of my life besides my sons. I so enjoy you descriptiveness as I can feel, smell and taste as your describing life there. Cortona is a part of who I am today. I am an artist and Cortona is my inspiration. I don’t think anyone can quite comprehend the hold Cortona has on a person who gets it!!!! I was lucky to have visited back in Cortona a few years ago and am dying to return. I even was able to connect with my boyfriend during my stay there Marco Gianelli who is now a doctor. I picked your new book Everyday in Tuscany for our book club read. We meet on this weds June 16 to discuss it. If you have any suggestions or dirrection you’d like to add please do. I’d love to hear them or any really important points you’d like to bring up.
Have a fabulous time in Cortona!!!!Wish I was there, I’m trying to talk my husband into a last minute trip there. I’d actually love to return for some art classes. Have a fantastic summer! I’d love to hear from you if you get a chance to write to our book club. Bono Note Jill
Hi Frances i have read all your books and i love them. I am living in Latina south of ROME. My husband has retired so we are spending the summer here which i love. We have our house 9 years but only got to come here for a couple of weeks at a time. My husband is Italian from Rome. I still do not speak Italian although i understand a lot. Your books give me such inspiration to learn so much so i promised myself this summer i will study Italian,do you have any tips i have started watching Italian for an hour a day and learning the verbs,with having an Italian husband it makes you very lazy. We went to cortona last year and the lady said we just missed you in the coffee shop. It was like living a dream you described Cortona so well i felt like i had been there before.I love your blog keep it going.I look forward to you cookery book. Thank you
Hi Frances
thank you for sharing your travel memories in such a wonderful way. I enjoyed reading about your recent cruise around the Mediterrenean and would, too, love to see pics! Please upload if you can!!!
All the best to you and Ed and have a great summer in Italy.
Jacky
Without pictures, your words convey beautifully.
Speaking of running shoes, the most important thing is to have good cushioning soles to minimize the damage caused by the impact. Nike Air Max series on running shoes, the soles are made from the air. Andrew tried to Air Max 360 running shoes in the revolutionary technology used in the Air Max 95. Nike air max 90 on the design, Andrew want to keep going. He carefully studied in the past sections of the Air Max shoes, clear this series of key elements of sport shoes, Andrew not only new non-bubble built up framework of the Nike air max 2009, Nike air max 2010, and foot and heel provide a strong support. And this approach Air Max series is also quite common.
With mbt shoes unique sole structure, the wearer can be in a naturally stable state, but through the balance of movement, that is by increasing muscle activity, be eliminated. mbt shoes sale , the pressure can balance the muscles and joints and to ease, has formed a straight line with the natural and proper biomechanics of gait. mbt trainers can help treat back, buttocks, leg and foot problems, and muscle, ligament and tendon-related medical conditions. If we shape ups for existing basic health problems, complementary therapy, medical training must be after the shape ups shoes instructor supervised.mbt sale Please pay special attention to all vulnerable to any inflammatory disease stages. shape ups skechers want to help people around the world have a more healthy, active and happy life. MBT believe that human fitness and health largely affected by the walk way, this view has been confirmed by a number of scientific research. shape ups therefore attempt to spread the ideas and concepts of fitness shoes.
timberland boots brand style, people can clearly feel the pioneer spirit of the western United States. timberland boots uk is a comfortable, durable, and durable as the priority. After years of development Timberland, timberland uk pure American-style has become the top outdoor brands, and now is with a high international reputation, the product around the world in more than 90 countries and regions.timberland mens boots products in addition to the popularity of its apparel and accessories products are intended mainly for comfort and durability of quality sought after by consumers. timberland shoes comfortable family use of natural fertilizers planting a large number of high quality organic cotton for the material, comfortable and healthy and safe; waterproof boots product line while others demand for the design of outdoor activities, timberland boots sale and large adopts the most advanced materials and technology manufacturers in order to provide customers with innovative and versatile clothing items.
With the rise of UGG boots, UGG Australia brand, Brian Smith, founder of surf spots in Perth, Australia, found that surfers will come ashore dressed in the local production of small factories ugg boots sale, not only comfortable and warm,uggs sale thick wool feet of water can quickly siphoning gas,ugg boots keeping feet dry and. So, he will become in the California snow boots, in the United States created the UGG Australia brand in California, cheap ugg boots, where rapid development. In 1998, Smith sold the brand UGG Australia Deckers Outdoor Corporation. After the new owners taking over that, relying on the use of fine materials (must be Australian A-anti-Yangmao Pi) and comfortable foot feeling, ugg classic boots,ugg classic tall can break the barriers of the professional market, consumers are more quickly receive the Hollywood and so sought after star.