Five Hours North: Friuli
July 19th, 2010
We drove to Mira. Never heard of it, right? Neither had I. We were picking up our friend Robert at the Venice airport Saturday morning early and selected an overnight in Mira, for its proximity to Marco Polo and for a hotel and restaurant that looked intriguing. Good choice! Mira is a village on the Brenta, famous for several Palladian villas along its banks. Instead of the sublime villas, Mira has hydrangeas, monster hydrangeas—all pink—reflecting in the water. Hotel Margherita is my favorite kind: old world, lovely and mellow, with meadows where statues punctuate the green swards.
We took a long walk around the village and down lanes, admiring some minor villas (some awaiting restoration) and breathing in the scents of tigli and magnolia. The owners of the Margherita (www.villa-margherita.com) also own Hotel Villa Franceschi (www.villafranceschi.com) and the restaurant for both hotels is located there. As we pulled up for dinner, guests alighted from Ferraris, the women dressed to kill and the men in elegant fitted pale biscuit or gray summer suits. Turns out they were there for a Lion’s Club function. (That’s not going to happen in downtown Raleigh.)
We ordered risotto with scampi and vegetables. Both were pureed to the same texture as the rice, adding subtle layered flavors–a blend, not a combination. With my grilled fish and Ed’s mysterious-looking dark, small soft-shell crabs, we drank a cool sauvignon from Friuli, a lilting preamble to our next destination.
The revelation of Mira is that you can stay here and take a vaporetto into and from Venice any half hour up until 10:30 at night. The hotel, at 150 euros, would be triple that amount in Venice. When Venice is packed, this is an appealing option. And you’re near the Giotto fresco cycle in Padova, as well as the Palladian villas. Here is the sister hotel, the Franceschi, where we’ll probably stay next time, just to be nearer the kitchen!
We picked up our friend, writer Robert Draper (still smiling after a grueling month all over Afghanistan) at the airport and headed toward Cormons for the wedding of our friend Giampaolo Venica at his family’s superb Venica & Venica vineyard. But today is devoted to wine. Robert steered us to the cooperative enoteca in the center of Cormons, where not only are wines from this tip-top region poured, the makers themselves often are there having a jolly time. We tasted three whites, pure as white lilies. Such exuberant wine makes you rejoice at the skill of the vintner–and the power of the land to give such gifts.
This was our second time staying at La Subida, www.lasubida.it , whose restaurant is definitely worth a detour. The owners, Josko and Loredana Sirk simply embody, for me, the spirit of the area—his robust friendliness and her gracious presence represent the hospitality you find everywhere around here. Their sleek new apartments in the woods make me want to check in alone for a month of writing, though I’d like to go with friends in winter for the cozy alpine atmosphere.
In the afternoon, we visited Franco Toros’s immaculate home in the lush hills, with the Slovenian border a stone’s throw away. Franco is a genial, up-front man with a deft skill—his wines are stellar. We left there with three cases.
We repaired to our room to rest after such indulgences, then as the long twilight started to settle over the hills, we drove to a perched medieval castle for dinner: Al Castello di Trussio dell’Aquila d’Oro, which is in Dolegna del Collio. (They don’t seem to have a website but you can read raves in any of the guidebooks.) The sommelier recommendeded perfect wines, the service was sweet, and the courses each outdid the other. At last light, a wobbly full moon rose over the fields below. I don’t want to go to heaven if it’s not as dreamy as this.
Two years ago, Robert introduced us to the Collio wine area and we are smitten. Friuli is Italy, but it’s also influenced by an Austrian heritage and a proximity to Slovenia. The food could not be better, nor could the vino. Mysterious Trieste makes a good gateway to the area. With wine as fine as this, you’d think Friuli would be a hot destination–but we saw hardly a tourist. Two trips here lure us to see the rest of the area’s lakes, mountain villages and Adriatic beaches. And to explore nearby Slovenia.
The wedding took place in a tiny church on a knob of hill, with an eagle-eye view. Robert was best man. Giampaolo and Chiara looked calm, happy and gorgeous. The flower girl was very important. I became entranced with the shoes women wore. I’ve always noticed the shoes in renaissance paintings—the Italians must always have adored their scarpe and the beat goes on.
There are many more but I’ll stop there. The wedding lunch lasted eight hours, with all the Venica wines. There was then a break before the music started and the night went on. For all I know, it’s still going on. We faded because we have to leave early for Cortona. Six guests arriving, then my family, then we have the 20th anniversary celebrations, and, and, and.
Here’s the train of the wedding dress:
Hi! I am writing to you again. Last wrote to you in June. I hope to eventually go to Venice. This looks like a wonderful place to stay! I really loved the shoe pics. When I was in Italy in April (this year) I had purchased Prada and Gucci shoes for my daughter, who was totally thrilled with them. I had to forward this to her. She is very obsessed with shoes and will love these pics. She did her undergrad work at UNC Chapel Hill(double majored in English and political science)..She went on to get her Masters in English, and her National Teaching license and now teaches high school English in NC. I look forward to your next set of pics and your wonderful blogs. Thank you again for sharing all these wonderful pics and info on places to stay and dine.
Thank you Frances for sharing a piece of paradise:-)
I am a Venezia lover and go back every year. Usually I stay in a flat in Cannaregio but in May this time I stayed out on Murano which was lovely. Thanks for taking me to Mira though, a place I would love to visit.
By the way, next time you visit Venezia be sure not to miss http://www.glasshandmade.it , the number one Trip Advisor site in Venice:
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g187870-d1514714-Reviews-Artigianato_d_Arte_di_Vianello_Mauro-Venice_Veneto.html
Mauro has become a good friend and is coming to Trondheim/Norway next week.
Bonjour,
En fait, je voulais laisser un message à Frances Mayes, j’ai beaucoup aimé son livre “Sous le Soleil de Toscane”, j’ai travaillé avec elle, et Ed, par la pensée en lisant son livre, j’ai sué sang et eau en sablant les poutres avec Ed et en faisant le jardin avec Frances… je vivais avec eux tous les incidents concernant Mr Benito, et les joies quand tout alait bien.
Je ne peux malheureusement pas venir à Bramasole, vraiment vraiment au-dessus de mes moyens.
Bravo pour votre courage Frances et Ed.
Je pense acheter prochainement “Every day in Toscane”
Jacqueline
Hi again Frances, still researching our common name for, hopefully, a common ancestor. I shall be in Italy end of September exploring and staying in the Montone area of Umbria and may take a side trip to Friuli, Mira and the Marche area – don’t yet know that part of the country. In 2007 we stayed just north of Venice and took the train in daily – great money saver and a bit of extra fun. Loved Verona, Lake Garda and the Liguria area. You sound so busy in Cortona etc. and the Tuscan Sun festival coming up – whew – you’ll need a holiday when you return to the US – But I’m thinking it’s not like work when living in the heady atmosphere of somewhere you love and sharing with friends and family. We are so fortunate to be able to travel and experience these wonders…..
Dear Frances,
thank you for sharing your Friuli experiences… I enjoyed all of it. It actually made me go back to reading the Friuli chapter in Sergio Esposito’s ‘passion on the vine’ while having a glass of pure white wine on the terrace. I thought you might like to read his book but then I discovered that you had already reviewed it
In ‘Everyday in Tuscany’ you write about a CD with the sounds of Cortona bells – I wondered if it’s possible to purchase it somewhere. Could you share where you bought it? Also, in your interview with Rick Steves you mention old Tuscan/Umbrian shepherd songs. I so much enjoy indulging into different kinds of music and I would really love to learn if they are available to buy.
Thanks so much, and have a great summer in Cortona. Happy anniversary and keep on with this fantastic blog!
Thanks,
Wilma
Ciao Wilma–a friend made the recording, just sitting in the piazza. I used to have an audio tape of the shepherds’ songs but it has gone into the lost world of out-of-date technology items. They were primitive and haunting and screechy.
Hi Frances
I’ve loved your books for a long time now and have recently started blogging myself at http://www.blissfulmum.wordpress.com. Today I wrote a post about my two favourite books (A Room with a View and of course, Under the Tuscan Sun) and in my research came across your lovely blog. I lived in Venice whilst studying History of Art at university and adore Italy. Really pleased to have found you here, will be following with great admiration! Helen
Finally, after many trips to Italy I will be staying in an Agriturismo vicino a Rapello for a week , I hope to explore many of the cities around me and I promised my daughter a trip to Perugia for chocolates. Your book, Under the Tuscan Sun was one of our book club’s favorites and now I hope to see it for myself and to gather some new recipes for my side career of catering. I too am a professor, albeit of Nursing and look forward to yearly trips to Italy. Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.
Will anything special be going on in Cortona during the week of Aug 1-8?
Grazie mille, Joy
Joy! YES!! Google The Tuscan Sun Festival–it’s a fabulous week of concerts, readings, wine tastings, cooking classes, yoga—like summer camp for grown-ups, only better. My husband, Ed, and our close friend Alberto Alfonso will have an art show as part of the events. They’re celebrating a collaboration of painting and poetry. On the stage–Renee Fleming, Joshua Bell, STING!!!, and the Bolshoi Ballet.
Thank-you for the info. We’ll be at the concert and the cooking class.
Hi Frances,
thank you for getting back to me on the Cortona bells and the shepherd songs. That’s so nice of you. It certainly made my day.
All the best to you and Ed,
Wilma
You certainly have been busy this summer. I hope your days have been filled with nothing but joy. How could it not be there? Cheers!! and as always I wish I were there.
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Hello Frances.
I have recently discovered your blog and am enjoying your comments and photo’s very much. Thank you for your wonderful observations on your life in Italy. At almost 70 I have come to poetry a little late in life and have found your Discovery of Poetry to be a wonderful teacher. I recently saw the movie Bright Star and was pleased to find the poem in the book! I spend 3 months of the winter in Arizona and hope sometime you will be giving a lecture nearby. Enjoy your 20th anniversary. Will look forward to hearing about it. Gayle
Hi Frances,
I always enjoy your books, also this blog. Your writing brings enjoyment and comfort to many different people–in ways that you many not imagine. I’ve writen to you before: I’m the retired history professor who has spent the last year caring for my six grandchildren while my daughter (newly divorced) completed a specialist degree in school psychology. During June, I spent all day, every weekday with the kids. Those were busy days, but I wanted something different for the kids to do. Then I remembered how, as a child, you had sent letters to cities that interested you. I suggested they write letters to Chambers of Commerce. I fully expected my computer-savvy grandchildren so say, “Why write letters when we can just go to the internet?” I wanted something that would get them away from the computer for a while. They weren’t too interested until we made a trip to the store for a box of envelopes, a ream of paper, books of stamps, and four new pens for the school aged among them. At first they sent letters to the obvious places: Orlando, Florida, Augusta, Georgia (that one from the 10 year old budding golfer). Then they got out a road atlas and started looking. They were thrilled when they found Dora, Alabama because their 4 year old sister loves the cartoon character. They sent off a letter in her name. The 9 year old wanted to send one somewhere in Canada. I suggested North Bay, Ontario because his mother had been born there. (My first husband started his administrative career at a small college there over 40 years ago.) The first day they sent 18 letters. At this point they have used several books of stamps. My 8 year old grandaughter asked, “Grammie, where did you get this idea?” I said “from reading a book.” She smiled and rolled her eyes: book reading is another Grammie pet-project.
A week later the excitement started! Getting mail was fun. The budding golfer got a map of Atlanta that showed just where the US Open is held. The 8 year old got a package from Tullahoma, Tennessee. She said, “I just liked the name and besides it rhymes with Olkahoma.” Maybe not a budding poet. Dora, Alabama included a calendar with pictures of local school children. After a careful examination of each picture, the 4 year old announced that she was sure the little girl in the month of June was “the real Dora.” Several people took the time to write little notes to the children and to wish them well with their project.
They are still sending letters and the arrival of the mailman is a high point in their day. Even the mailman thinks it’s fun. And when they go back to school–they won’t have an exciting trip to tell about, but they can tell about all their “travels.”
So thanks for your wonderful books that give me such pleasure, and for a great idea that pleased my grandchildren. In my mind’s eye, I see them getting together 30 years from now and one of them will say, “Remember the summer Grammie had us write letters?”
Kathleen
Kathleen–So great! Glad they’re enjoying this project. I used to put notes in bottles too, and give them to the fishermen at Fernandina to drop overboard when they went to sea. I wonder if they did! Frances
Was this wedding for the same Chiara as your neighbor in Cortona? I hope so – she and her family seem so dear. Loved the hotel photos but really enjoyed the wedding shoes & train. Wishing my best for the bride & groom (whoever they are!) I hope your busy weeks are enjoyable ones.
Always appreciate your writing – enjoyed meeting you at Powells in Portland, Oregon. – Kate
Ciao Kate–A different Chiara! My neighbor is unmarried but has a fidanzato. best, Frances
Hi Frances,
I’m so delighted about your blog. It gives me the feeling of being nearby at Cortona. And soon it will be the case.
My husband and I will stay 2 weeks in Tuscany. On saterday 31 luglio we will come to Cortona to enjoy the Tuscan Sun Festival.
At noon we will have lunch at “Il Falconiere”. And at 5.00 pm we will come to your reading from your last book “Every day in Tuscany” in Sant’ Agostino.
In the meanwhile I do enjoy your last book,especially the recipes.
See you soon at Cortona.
Best Regards,
Roland & Arlette from Belgium, Geraardsbergen
Hi Frances,
I’m so delighted about your blog. It gives me a little bit the feeling of being nearby at Cortona. And soon it will be the case.
My husband and I will stay two weeks in Tuscany.
Saterday 31 july we will come to Cortona to enjoy The Tuscan Sun Festival.
At noon we will have lunch at “Il Falconiere”. And at 5.00 pm we will come to your reading from “Every day in Tuscany” at Sant’ Agostino.
In the meanwhile I do enjoy your last book, especially your recipes.
See you soon at Cortona.
Best regards,
Roland & Arlette from Belgium, Geraardsbergen.
Lady, I am a true tuscany man, I had read the books that speak abaut tuscany…I meet a lot of American British and other not italian people that arrive in Italy and they have a distort vision of Italy in particularly of tuscany. Yours are books, and you describe a part a little part of our life, and it is not in this way, I am exaust to explain to american people that the life is different, that we have some time problems and for us it is not an holidays every day…I can’t explain better…but sorry for this but I said every time that wath I think…
Best regards
Eugenio
Eugenio, Thanks for writing. My books are personal memoirs. I could not speak about life as it is lived by Italians, all over Italy–I’m only writing about my own life here. I am also not on holiday here any more. I live here. But I don’t pretend to speak for anyone else! Saluti–Frances
My cousin recommended this blog and she was totally right keep up the fantastic work!
Dear Francis,
I want to thank you for the excellent geography and art history lessons you’re giving me through your wonderful books.
I’m currently reading Every Day in Tuscany and In Tuscana and am spending the hours I’m not enjoying them on the internet discovering the places you visit and paintings of Luca Signorelli. He was truly amazing wasn’t he? The detail in his works. Wow!
Before I know it it’s tea time and I have to return to the reality of my life in Ballarat, Australia. But then tomorrow I’ll be off on my learning adventures again! Best regards, Judi
Frances,
I’m so happy I’ve found your blog as I have been hoping to thank you for writing your uplifting books. As a single parent working full-time, life is usually exhausting. I began using Rosetta Stone to learn Italian (a fourtieth birthday present to myself), this year. Then I found your books. Every time I’m feeling too tired or stressed to do Rosetta Stone, I read a chapter of one of your books and I get my energy and incentive back! I enjoy your continually positive style of writing and intriguing descriptions. My goal when I retire is to be able to afford a small apartment in Italy to visit in the summer and to rent it during the year. Wish me luck! Thank you once again and have a fantastic summer, Jennifer
Hi Frances, Thanks for sharing another wonderful slice of your amazing life, always such an inspiration. We just finished dinner that started with Bramasole olive oil…wish I could figure out a way to feature it in dessert.
Best wishes to you and Ed…we are still reliving our visit with Ed last fall. Hope you have a wonderful Tuscan Sun Festival ..wish we could be there.
Ciao…Marcie & Rick
Hello Frances!
I read a couple of your books before our first trip to Italy last October. Loved the books and loved Italy too…for all the resons you already know! Hubby stayed 2 weeks and had to get home to work but I am retired and older than him (oh well) and got to stay a month! When I came back home I read Bella Tuscany to keep me floating, sooo good. Then I stopped reading and dreaming of Itlay and got back into my good life San Diego CA. Gotta tell you though – I just picked up “Every Day in Tuscany” today and I was in tears reading you once again, and I am only on page 36! Cannot wait to read more. You get it right so often! The resons for living and loving a good life, the history, the art, my oh my, I am blown away once again.
I like to crimp the pages to show my husband what you’ve written from the spiritual perspecitve. He’s a deacon in the Catholic faith so he can relate! I am into that too but also looking at the recipies and wine choices you give us so I can make my list for the grocery store and Bev Mo!
Bless you Frances and Ed too, wow, what a guy! Thanks for bringing me along with you!
Sarah
My husband and I just watched “Under the Tuscan Sun”together (I’d seen it previously, and also read your book) as we’re anticipating our 40th wedding anniversary trip to Italy in October! We plan to spend a few days in Tuscany. Next on my to-read list: “Every Day in Tuscany.” I’m also a writer, and I loved your essay, “Relics of Summer,” in “All Out of Faith: Southern Women on Spirituality.” Jennifer and Wendy asked me to contribute a chapter to the next volume, due out the end of the year. My essay for the anthology is titled, “Jesus Freaks, Belly Dancers and Nuns.” I’m a convert to Eastern Orthodoxy and I paint Byzantine-style icons. Have 8 published essays and working on a novel. Your writing inspires me! Glad to have discovered your blog. I blog at http://wwwpenandpalette-susancushman.blogspot.com/.
My husband and I want to rent a villa in Tuscany for a week at the end of August. Does anyone have any suggestions as to realtors, locations etc?
Marlla–check Classic Tuscan Homes, operated by friends of mine and very reliable. Frances
Hi Frances,
thanks for this wonderful blog, it always is a real treat to follow your life in Italy. We were thinking on you on July 5, hoping you and Ed had a wonderful, memorable experience with all your loved ones. Would love to see a few pictures, if you don’t mind?
And it’s great to discover that so many others do enjoy your books as well. Seems to be a real community, here! To me, you certainly have shaped a complete new concept of lifestyle. Thank you for that.
Have an enjoyable summer in Cortona.
Best regards, Melissa
Hi Frances,
I love your books and although I have been living in Europe for the past few years and been to Italy many times (it’s so beautiful!), I’ve never been to Tuscanny
I’m actually writing to you because I have a request. Right now I am in Toronto, Canada taking the Humber College Book Creative Publishing Program. We are currently working on our final project called “The Enterprise” in which we create a completely hypothetical publishing house. We need to find authors that are willing to write for us (but you don’t actually have to write anything), we provide the idea – hence why we picked you, or you can contribute your own idea. Everything is strictly confidential and nobody outside of the program needs to know anything. If you are curious and willing to find out more, please contact me at my email address and I will send you all the details you need.
Thank you so much for your time and your stories, you brighten our lives.
Very sincerely, Monica
Hi there, Frances.
I was a student in a couple of creative writing classes you taught back in the early Eighties at SF State and I’ve enjoyed watching you have such a fantastic career. You were a fine teacher as well, one of my favorites. I think I may have even received a couple of A’s from you!
If you ever come through Marin County for a speaking engagement I’ll try to catch you.
Congratulations on a life well lived.
Ron Eisner
Ciao Frances,
Yo adoro tus libros! I love your books. I want to be a travel novelist, I already do the travelling and the writing its the publishing part I’m missing. Currently I travel for one reason, LOVE, it has taken me to London and back to San Diego, CA and now Seattle, WA. Just in case you are wondering I’m travelling for ONE LOVE< THE ONE, anyways, his name is Alex and I hope to one day become published, any words of wisdom?
ce vediamos dopo!
Ana
Hello Frances
Thank you so much for sharing this lovely glimpse of a place in Italy I probably would never have known about. I love your writing style.
Thanks once again.
Noelle, Australia.
Frances, early this morning I finished Bella Tuscany and I truly feel that I’ve been on a long and lovely journey through the villages and hillsides of Italy. Your stories and descriptions fulfill the dreams of those of us who are unable to travel and and truly EXPERIENCE the daily feel of life there. Talk about living vicariously!
This morning, after I closed the book, I proceeded to sleep in (without guilt), go to my local farmers market and select the freshest fruits and vegetables of my choice for our dinner with friends this evening; and I ended that trip by speaking with the owner of a local lavender farm and selecting lotions made at the farm and a sachet in an embroidered pouch which was sourced from a trip to the lavender fields of Provence. My sister’s birthday is tomorrow, and she will receive a a basket with these items, along with your book. I firmly believe in sharing experiences as you have with all of your readers. Looking forward to reading your next book.
Fondly,
Amanda Wood
Hi Frances,
Hope you are doing well. Just finished reading “Everyday” for the third time. I’m really enjoying the book. Really adored the part about “Fonte” and Willie running down to the “Orto”. We bought a new home here in Winston Salem last July, big and roomy. My favorite part of the house is my kitchen. Of course, my “orto” in full display… I’m covered up with tomatoes, basil, sage, cucumbers, yellow squash and zucchini. Just fried a bunch of squash and zucchini, “the southern way” it was wonderful. When I get into the kitchen, I think of you and Ed at Bramasole and Fonte gathering your harvest and enjoying the love of great food, friends, family and let’s don’t forget wine. This May I purchase several good Sangiovese’s made in Cortona. They make great pairings with some of my Italian dishes. We love to entertain and do so quite often. I guess by now Ashley and Willie are with you in Cortona. I hope you all have a great time together and enjoy the festive activities this year in Cortona.
Best Wishes,
Joseph
Dear Frances, thanks for the reading from “Every day in Tuscany” last Saturday at The Tuscan Sun Festival. We went (my husband and me) in Cortona last week and finally I saw you live!
I can’t wait for Italian translation of your last book.
Bye
Ciao Frances, thanks for the reading from “Every day in Tuscany” last Saturday at The Tuscan Sun Festival. We went (my husband and me) in Cortona last week and finally I saw you live! I can’t wait for Italian translation of your last book. A presto.
Dear Frances!
My name is Julia, i am editor of the leading weakly newspaper Subbota. Your book and the movie Under the Tuscan sun are very popular in our country and in Russia. We know publisher from Azbooka (Sankt Peterburg), who published your book too. Me and few of my collegues are going to Tuscany this September and will stay in Cortona from 19th till 20th of September. We are big fans of your book and would love to make interview with you in Cortona! It won’t take longer then 30 minutes. Will you be there and can we meet, please? Thank you in advance! Julia
Dear Frances,
Four of us are going to Friuli in April of 2012. We are going to stay at La Subida for about 5 days and would like to stay in a wonderful place in Trieste, which is special, that you might know about but no one else does. We are willing to spend in the neighborhood of $300/night but don’t want to be spending $500/night… Is there a special secret place that you would share with us?
Jill and Lee
Jill–Trieste is way up on my list but I haven’t been there in many years. Let me know what you discover!