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Florence in January

January 24th, 2011

In winter, Florentines take back their city.  The Florence that’s usually hidden by crowds becomes visible and intriguing.  For example, take the short street, via dei Servi, which runs from the piazza of the grand duomo to Piazza Santissima Annunziata.  I go down that street often to buy papers and notebooks at Tassotti and to look at the hand- bound leather books at the Scriptorium.  The rest of the street has been rather a blur, with bicycles, Vespas, and people crowding the way.  In January, it reverts to a calm little street, with the great bulb of the duomo visible at one end and the magnificent piazza at the other.  This (actually taken two streets over) draws me to Firenze in any season.  See the people at the top of the dome?  So much to contemplate in this one small photo.

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The Piazza Santissima Annunziata would be the pride of any city but here, in the city of extravagant treasures, it’s kind of neglected. The city has chosen to position six big trash receptacles around the perimeter.  In winter, it’s empty of people and you get to stand near Ferninando I, the bronze horseman who anchors the piazza, and slowly turn around, enjoying the ideal Renaissance architecture and speculating about the barred window in the Ospedale degli Innocenti.  The innocenti were babies, abandoned at the hospital; the window at the left end once held a wheel where the innocents could be left and spun inside to some refuge.  The building was designed by Brunelleschi and later decorated by Andrea della Robbia with ceramic medallions of swaddled bambini. There’s an easy half day to spend on the piazza and the nearby Archeology Museum. But this time I was taken by the little street, lined with tiny, interesting  shops.

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We stayed at a residenza, not quite a hotel, nor and b & b.  Italy has been very fast to offer alternate accommodations to hotels during the crisis and even before.  B & B’s are cropping up everywhere and now very nice “residences” are too.  Our was Residenza della Signoria, www.residenzadellasignoria.com in the very heart of town and next door to Verrazzano, where we often go for pastries, quick lunch, or a glass of wine before dinner.  Location, location, yes!  The residenza  offers no hotel services—no concierge or bellmen or room service, or even breakfast.  But the room was attractive and the bath nice and it was very quiet. Amazingly inexpensive, too.

Not so, the two restaurants where we dined: Ora d’Aria,  www.oradariaristorante.com and Alle Murate, www.artenotai.org . Both represent the new food of Florence.  We love the traditional trattorie but these two strike out in directions primarily pertinent to the chefs in charge, rifting on tradition and surprising combinations.  Ora d’Aria, used to be located across from a former prison and took the inmates’ “hour of air” as their name.  They’ve moved now to an airy space—a little too well-lighted—painted in pale gray and cream, a cool Gustavian style. Alle Murate, also contemporary in décor, is romantically lit and discreet.  The ceiling is painted with 13th-century frescos of astonishing quality.  The chef and most of the staff are female.  If you go and are four or five people, request the table at the top of the stairs—you’ll be right under the fresco and across from the earliest portrait of Dante.  We were downstairs at an intimate table and more than happy. Neither restaurant was the kind of place where I felt comfortable snapping photos, but, take my words, these are two unique experiences in Florence.  When food is great that’s enough but when the place itself transcends its space, that’s a memorable experience.

Both days were fine.  The sun blazed in a blue, blue sky and all the Florentines were strolling, sipping hot chocolate–very thick–topped with whipped cream, or walking their dogs, also in Prada coats, and chatting in the sunshine with friends.  Italians manage to look stylish and elegant in their bundled up state. I guess it’s the cut of the coat, the butter-leather boot, the scarf knotted just so. It was just warm enough for an aperitivo outside at Café Rivoire on Piazza della Signoria.

Very late, returning from Alle Murate, we were pulled by the music to a café on the main piazza. The band played 70’s music and when they began “Can’t Get Enough of Your Love, Babe” a small, thin man in his 80′s glided out with a big-boned girl in her 20′s.  They were smooth and symbiotic, and found each other’s rhythm across the years.  He later danced with two loose and angular young Japanese girls.  Lovely to witness, especially out under the stars on a January night. . .

The last day, we were knocked sideways by the big Bronzino exhibit. His portraits!  The grace with which he painted hands.  I’d say he was obsessed with hands.  I bought the catalogue and all the way home on the train dreamed over his canvases full of light, his touch of the erotic, his faces looking frankly at you from another time, and most of all his blending of the tactile and the visionary, rather like two dancers who, in the confluence of movement, become one.

Browse all articles from January 2011 , posts tagged with: Alle Murate, Andrea della Robbia, Bronzino, Brunelleschi, Firenze, Florence, Ora d'Aria, Piazza Santissima Annunziata, Residenza della Signoria, Scriptorium, Tassotti

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71 Responses to “Florence in January”

  1. Tweets that mention Florence in January « The Official Website and Blog of Frances Mayes -- Topsy.com says:
    January 24, 2011 at 11:33 am

    [...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by NewsfromItaly, 4 the love of italy. 4 the love of italy said: RT @jolocktov: #Florence in January, where the dogs too wear their #Prada coats: http://bit.ly/fl3xIE #Italy #travel [...]

    Reply
    • Emmy says:
      March 1, 2011 at 8:35 am

      Why have you not written in February…………….?

    • francesmayes says:
      March 1, 2011 at 2:41 pm

      Hi Emmy–thanks for asking! I’m just about to. Have been in a big crunch to finish the cookbook and have been up to my chin
      in flour!!! Frances

  2. Sara says:
    January 24, 2011 at 11:33 am

    Oh Frances, How lovely!!! We were in Florence last spring and again,I had never thought about visiting in the winter. Just as your winter trip to Venice,this sounds divine. To see all of this with less crowds has to be just a wonderment. We did the long trek up the stairs to the top of the duomo. It took a very long time as we had to stop for numerous people coming down the narrow curving areas. We had to press ourselves against the walls so they could pass. But to navigate the city with less crowds and browse the little shops…oh my..how lucky you are!!! It also sounds like you found really unique places to eat and to stay. I am going to try and start writing down all the places,so….next time…my trip will be even better and more lovely..(although when I was there,I did not see how that could be possible, at the time..)Thank you for sharing this,yet another wonderful,winter side trip with us. Again,best regards…

    Reply
  3. Britt-Arnhild says:
    January 24, 2011 at 12:57 pm

    In April last year a dream of mine was fulfilled, for the first time I was visiting Firenze. I had spent some retreat and writing time up in the Tuscan mountains, in a beautiful, old farm, Santa Maria, and would go on to Venezia/Murano for an extra treat. In between this I stopped in Firenze and walked around from early morning till late night for three lovely days. Overwhelming!
    An American blogreader of mine knew I was there (I had posted about my travels of course). She was in Firenze too for a few days and one afternoon when I sat down at a cafe a woman suddenly came over to my table, asking: “Are you Britt?” I almost fell down from my chair. My moment of fame :-)
    A friendship was born, in June she and her husband are coming to Norway, nezt summer I, my husband and our daughter plan to visit Jane and her husband in USA.

    Reply
  4. Britt-Arnhild says:
    January 24, 2011 at 12:59 pm

    Oh my, I was so deep in my own Florence memory I completely forgot to comment on how I love to travel with you – to Venezia, to Firenze…..and everywhere else.

    Reply
  5. A-M says:
    January 24, 2011 at 9:08 pm

    I visited Florence during the height of tourist season and was highly disappointed. I suspect I might like it better in winter. One of the highlights, however, was stumbling across this young lady after dinner one evening. I am still in awe of her voice. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZB-0VGMWys

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 28, 2011 at 11:33 am

      A-M–Beautiful. I listened to others too on U tube. Wonder what her story is. Frances

  6. Fanny says:
    January 25, 2011 at 7:08 am

    Frances, right when I was dreaming about Venice, wishing to have your poetic guide for my language-school trip to Florence, I opened your blog again and couldn’t believe it was there. Thank you so much! Will check out Verrazzano for sure. If you get to Perugia next time, try Pizzeria Etrusca in Via U. Rocci 29/31 – they have the best pizza in town, to go or to stay. For lunch, they are flooded by the international students from the Università per Stranieri which creates a vivid atmosphere.
    http://maps.google.de/maps?hl=de&rlz=1T4HPEB_deDE247DE249&q=perugia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wl

    Have you got any suggestions how to get from Peretola to the city center? I can’t find good information on the web… I am leaving on Sunday – a month in Florence!!!

    Thanks, Sanny

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 28, 2011 at 11:25 am

      Sanny, or is it Fanny??—not sure but wouldn’t worry. The train and bus system is comprehensive. Have fun and thanks for the recommendation–Frances

  7. Katherine says:
    January 25, 2011 at 9:54 am

    How pretty are the boxes containing all the lotions and potions… interesting that they are printed in English. I guess the manufacturer had in mind the vast number of English-speaking tourists!

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 28, 2011 at 11:23 am

      Katherine, yes, probably so. There’s a long Italian interest in English pharmacy products. There are still two English Pharmacies in Florence and used to be more. Not sure why the Italians were enamoured of English bath and cosmetic products. The other photo shows all Italian products and they’re lovely–similar to the Santa Maria Novella ones. ciao, Frances

  8. Marisa Bergamasco says:
    January 25, 2011 at 11:10 am

    Dear Frances,

    I have no doubt that Venice is a very charming city, indeed, but it is also true that there is no other city as warm and cozy as Florence is. I’ve been just two times in there (I would love to come back many many more…) and the two times I arrived I felt the same huge hug holding me, comforting me, helping me to understand its unequaled beauty. This is Florence to me, like a Grande Abbraccio.

    I still wonder if you received the note I left the last November in your Bramasole’s house.

    Fondly,

    Marisa Bergamasco

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 28, 2011 at 11:20 am

      Marisa, I am just back yesterday–it took three days to get home. When I was at Bramasole, I found your note saying that you’d been there and that you travel frequently from Brazil. Maybe we will meet in the piazza one day. I’ll go back in last spring. All the best, Frances

  9. Darlene says:
    January 25, 2011 at 7:49 pm

    I know this may be a stretch but I am a returning student in Wisconsin (USA)I’ve written poetry since childhood and would like to expand my variety of work. I’m taking a creative writing class and The Discovery of Poetry is the book we’re working from this semester. Classes started yesterday and the school’s bookstore won’t have them available until next week Wednesday. I’ve ordered my book(borders.com) but my first assignment is due tomorrow. So I put out an email to the other classmates but haven’t received a response yet. Therefore I thought I’d attempt to contact the source (as best I can :-) and my one simple question is:

    According to Ms. Mayes, “What is a poem?”.

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 28, 2011 at 11:18 am

      Darlene, I’ve been in transit and didn’t get your note until today. What is a poem? I hope you have my book by now but even in that there’s not a succinct definition! Many
      have tried to define a poem or a painting or a piece of music but fortunately the arts are slippery and elusive! A fragment of wonder? A query to the gods? A piece of bread cast unto the waters? A cup of heart’s blood? A handful of images? A hand put down on a hot burner? A sparkler thrown in the air? As a writer, I’d say find you own definition. What led you to start writing in childhood and why continue it now? There’s a “force that through the green fuse drives the flower” (Dylan Thomas) that poets seem to own, even if they can’t define why. Hope you enjoy the class!!! Frances

  10. Leah says:
    January 25, 2011 at 11:46 pm

    The pictures of those shops are art in themselves! You guys must feel like you own the place when the tourists are far and few between. These posts are such a highlight in my week. Thank you for sharing!!!

    Reply
  11. Marisa Bergamasco says:
    January 26, 2011 at 9:48 pm

    Dear Frances,

    Is there anything wrong with the site? The posts are not appearing in the blog. I guess this already happened once before. I hope it can be solved soon. We all love to read your entrances.

    Hugs,

    Marisa Bergamasco

    Reply
  12. Lynn says:
    January 27, 2011 at 12:28 am

    When you talk about how you will never see all of Italy, you could say the same about the duomo in Florence. It is amazing to see all those figures in the freize(? just guessing on the name) in your picture. Who are they? Each one probably has a story.

    And what about the doors of the Baptistry? Or the floor mosaic of the Slaughter of the Innocents. I remember walking up to that tower where your photograph shows the tiny people looking out on Florence. The most amazing part was trudging up the narrow stone staircase of the dome.

    Your picture captures the immensity of the duomo even from blocks away. I remember walking through the streets on the way to Michelango’s childhood home and thinking that the Italians have the need, an grace, to cover every existing surface with beauty.

    Reply
  13. Tena says:
    January 27, 2011 at 7:22 pm

    The last two paragraphs of this post knocked me sideways! Thanks Frances.

    Reply
  14. Elisabetta says:
    January 28, 2011 at 12:54 pm

    Dear Madame,

    I see those wonderful plates in your photos. Could you give me the address to find them in Florence?
    Thank you!
    Elisabetta

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 28, 2011 at 2:37 pm

      Elisabetta—I don’t know the exact address but the shop is on via dei Servi, a very short street. Frances

  15. Marisa Bergamasco says:
    January 28, 2011 at 4:35 pm

    Dear Frances,

    I’m glad to hear you found my note! But, let me tell you that I am from Argentina, not Brazil, and I also wrote on that note about my desire of be able to keep in touch with you, do you remember? I really hope you do!

    Thanks for answering always with such kindness!

    Marisa

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 29, 2011 at 7:17 pm

      Marisa, I will write you at your email–Frances

  16. Emma says:
    January 29, 2011 at 1:08 am

    Dear Frances: I was wondering whether you could answer a very curious question of mine. When I was in Florence in 2009, we were dining at the family home of Pope Clemens and the streets were cleaned by the city around 20 times in the span of the three hours that we were dining. Does the city have an immaculate city cleaning system as I and my friends suspect? We even saw these little sewers that clean the debris that seems to cling to the edge of the side walks.

    Thanks
    Emma

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 29, 2011 at 7:17 pm

      Emma! Wow–I don’t know. I’ve always noticed, however, that Florence is remarkably clean considering how many tourists are dropping their gum wrappers and gelato napkins. Anyone else able to answer??? Frances

  17. marie-danielle says:
    January 29, 2011 at 7:59 am

    Bonjour madame MAYES Je doit vous dire que j’adore vos livres que je dévore .Vous avez beaucoup de gout et d’élégance ,et surtout gourmande de bonne choses comme moi .cordialement M-D

    Reply
  18. Alessandra di Cortona says:
    January 29, 2011 at 11:39 am

    Ciao Frances.
    Was so nice to see you last week in Cortona.
    I have been to Florence two days ago and it was crazy with people, I guess they never rest!! Here all is calm and not very cold, it depends on the day.
    The shop is closed for renovation, but I’ll postpone any works until I come back from London, BTW I’d like to ask you for hints for special eateries in London…except to look for indian food there, I know NOTHING.
    The bookings for the cooking classes pour in like mad, and I am using the engagement calendar you gave me as my cooking classes agenda.
    I am sure it will be a good year.
    I am getting ready for dinner at Franco the cowboy tonight, and hope that spring will come back soon.

    Just passed by to say hello.

    Alessandra

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 29, 2011 at 7:21 pm

      Ciao bella!! I haven’t been to London in years but I am sure the River Cafe is still good!! Enjoy your mother-daughter break there. See you in maggio. Frances

    • Betty Cyrus says:
      February 16, 2011 at 3:24 pm

      Did I understand correctly that you teach cooking classes? My best friend and I are talking about coming to Italy to take a cooking class together. How exciting to do that in Cortona. I will be visiting in May and I plan on visiting Cortona. Hopefully, I will stop in your shop and see for myself.

    • francesmayes says:
      February 21, 2011 at 9:33 pm

      Ciao Betty–No! I do not teach cooking classes. There are many who do–and are wonderful. I’m so busy writing. Have fun! Frances

  19. Rachel says:
    January 29, 2011 at 10:06 pm

    Dear Mrs. Mayes,

    Despite watching the movie, “Under the Tuscan Sun,” too many times to count, I never caught it was based on a book until last New Year’s. It being a beautiful, sense-fulfilling movie, I looked up your book and just finished reading it. I LOVED it! I have always had a longing to go to Italy, and after finishing your book, the longing is burning deep and strong. I was lulled by your lyrical writing, appetized by your food masterpieces and invigorated by your remodeling. Thank you for sharing such a surreal experience with us. I’m lending the book to a good friend on Monday. She will love it.
    Warmly,
    Rachel

    Reply
  20. Rachel says:
    January 29, 2011 at 10:07 pm

    Dear Mrs. Mayes,

    Despite watching the movie, “Under the Tuscan Sun,” too many times to count, I never caught it was based on a book until last New Year’s. It being a beautiful, sense-fulfilling movie, I looked up your book and just finished reading it. I LOVED it! I have always had a longing to go to Italy, and after finishing your book, the longing is burning deep and strong. I was lulled by your lyrical writing, appetized by your food masterpieces and invigorated by your remodeling. Thank you for sharing such a surreal experience with us. I’m lending the book to a good friend on Monday. She will love it.

    Warmly,
    Rachel

    Reply
  21. Marisa Bergamasco says:
    January 30, 2011 at 11:21 am

    Dear Frances,

    Thanks for your answser. It will be very nice of you!

    Regarding Emma’s post and your reply to her, it is hard to understand that this kind of dirty and insensitive tourists might be interested in visiting a city like Florence. They definitely don´t deserve it. Not this one, not any other city.

    Thanks again, Frances!

    Un forte abbraccio,

    Marisa Bergamasco

    Reply
    • Emma says:
      February 12, 2011 at 10:05 pm

      I was visiting the city with my school. Florence is such a beautiful and intriguing city with so much history. I was just interested in the city system and how such a city is ran. Coming from America where such pride in keeping the city streets clean lack among the least. It saddens me that we do not do more to make our streets as such as those in Florence

  22. Jordan says:
    January 30, 2011 at 2:08 pm

    My Dearest Frances:

    I have recently broken up with my boyfriend… He said he doesn’t love me anymore. “Under The Tuscan Sun” is always my source of comfort when I feel lost in life, as I do now. You’re a beautiful writer. I find your courage so inspiring. I hope that ladybugs happen to me someday.

    Love from Mexico,
    Jordan Jarillo

    Reply
  23. Britt-Arnhild says:
    January 31, 2011 at 10:22 am

    The Perfect House by Witold Rybczynski came in the mail today, from amazon.co.uk. I am looking forward to read it before my next trip to Italy which will be in late May.
    After five days as a tour leader and guide for a group of deacons from my diocese, I have just managed to give myself one week off. So when the others fly back home to Norway the 24st of May, I have a whole week just by myself in Italy. Will eventually take the train north to Venezia, but plan to stop in Tuscany on my way north. Last year I did the same and stopped in Firenze (after a few days up in the Toscana mountains) Would like to try another of the Tuscan towns this year. Do you have one to recommend?

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 31, 2011 at 12:47 pm

      Britt–Siena is a great base. I love Pienza, Montepulciano, also tiny places such as Lucignano and Montechiello. Arezzo is undervalued–has one of the great piazza of the country. And the antique fair the first weekend of every month. Sounds wonderful, a week alone in Italia. Have fun–Frances

  24. Laura says:
    January 31, 2011 at 12:57 pm

    Dear Frances,

    I have written to you previously (April 20, 2010) and you graciously responded: http://www.francesmayesbooks.com/2010/04/07/a-brief-pause/#comments

    I am writing again because I am now financially ready to return to Italy for an extended period, and my background is in journalism. For the past year and a half, I have studied Italian using every mode possible – Rosetta Stone, grammar books, flash cards, and courses at the Italian School of Stockton, CA.

    I envision enrolling in a language program in Florence or elsewhere in Tuscany, while freelance writing or working on research assignments for an author or professor. Are there any specific language programs or forums for writing opportunities you suggest I look into? My interests include travel, photography, fashion, and baking and culinary arts.

    Thank you in advance for your feedback!

    Grazie mille,
    Laura

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      January 31, 2011 at 5:53 pm

      Laura–sounds good! There are SO many places to study and I really don’t know a lot about them. I went to Dante Alighieri in Siena; Ed went to the University for Foreigners in Perugia. In every town, there are tutors so I’d say pick where you want to be and find someone there to teach you. Do you mean Italian authors or professors for work? I’d think that would be the hard part. Best of luck–Frances

  25. Britt-Arnhild says:
    January 31, 2011 at 1:04 pm

    Thank you Frances. I must check out how I can travel around by train, as I don’t plan to rent a car when it is me only. The Italian railway system is very good though…….

    Reply
  26. Laura says:
    February 1, 2011 at 4:41 pm

    Thanks for your reply, Frances. I will look into those programs as I continue my research.

    Reply
  27. Wynne says:
    February 2, 2011 at 3:00 pm

    Oh, Ms. Mayes,

    I just this moment finished “Every Day in Tuscany” and as I was reading it on the (NYC) subway yesterday, I simply couldn’t stop tearing up. Have you ever wanted something so desperately that the mere thought of actually attaining it nearly makes you weep? This is how I feel about our dream of living (at least part-time) in Italy. Your books, especially this one, have furthered my quest to emulate, to a degree, your life in Tuscany.

    We’ve earmarked part of our investment portfolio for the purchase of a home to restore there, and just saying to myself, “We’re buying a home in Italy” makes me feel like the dream isn’t quite so far out of reach.

    Thank you so much for your wonderful memoirs – the passion with which you love your homes and your adopted country comes through loud and clear and the description of your grandson Willie learning to love it as well, is endearing.

    With a tremendous amount of online research under my belt (and much still to do), I simply cannot wait to begin our in-person search for a home…and for the journey of discovery.

    Thank you again for the inspiration!

    Best regards,
    Wynne Gavin

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      February 2, 2011 at 6:57 pm

      Wynne–the adventure begins!!! All the best to you. I hope you find paradiso! Frances

  28. Carole Pâquet says:
    February 3, 2011 at 4:47 pm

    Dear Mrs Frances,

    Firrenze! la bella… I’m a faithful reader! and shame on me I just discovered your website. But I’m here to stay! Via dei Servi… such souvenirs for me. I was in Florence in october 2006 for one month for an immersion course in italian. A bit of my heart was left ther… and Via dei Servi was on my way to school! I was the oldest pupil (58 at the time) but I enjoyed every second of it! And I walked through this wonderful city every day in the afternoon, and just like you I discovered so many little corners, so many little shops, so many little marvels, hidden from the tourists… And what about little trattorias far from the center… Every meal was a feast!
    When I saw your picture with all the little boxes, I smiled. Because I bought this vanilla bubble bath and body cream, just for the picture on the box. Florence is in my heart, and Tuscany too. I turned back there for on month with my ex-husband and friends and we visited a lot…
    Thanks to you, because after reading all your wonderful books, I could’nt resist going there… and fell in love with Italy!
    My writing in English is not so good, because I’m french speaking, but I read all your books in English! And…I’ll be faithful.
    Carole

    Reply
  29. Travel Photography: The Most Beautiful Villages of Tuscany (The Most Beautiful Villages) says:
    February 5, 2011 at 2:23 pm

    [...] Florence in January « The Official Website and Blog of Frances Mayes [...]

    Reply
  30. Catherine Batka says:
    February 6, 2011 at 2:07 pm

    re:Every Day in Tuscany -Tree of Life crowned with Pelican

    The pelican pecking his breast to produce drops of blood to feed his fledglings is a symbol of Christ in the iconography of the Catholic Church. That it sits atop the tree of life has deeper meaning than family life. It represents both life and eternal life.

    Reply
    • teresa says:
      March 4, 2011 at 10:27 pm

      catherine, beautifully written!

  31. Cody says:
    February 8, 2011 at 8:16 pm

    Frances,

    First, I’d like to say thank you for your literary genius. It has strengthened my life’s ambition to move to Italy. My question for you is this: What advice could you give me for finding a “fixer-upper” and what kind of jobs are always open in Tuscany? I’m a writer, multi-lingualist, and musician, but I’m also diabetic, so I need to find a source of income. Any suggestions? Grazie. :)

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      February 9, 2011 at 3:58 pm

      Ciao Cody, the only suggestion I have is to set aside time to go there and really check things out. Italy is in recession too, so jobs are tough to find, even with a proper permission. In certain parts of Italy–lovely parts such as the Marche and Abruzzo;–you can still find good buys in houses awaiting your life blood!!! Your facility with languages should be a big help. Lots of people who go over with your desires do manage to make it work so don’t be discouraged but be realistic and go spend some investigatory time there. City or country? Apartment or house? Full time? SO much to consider. Best of luck–Frances

  32. cinzia says:
    February 9, 2011 at 1:50 pm

    Florence is a splendid timeless city. I wish we humans lived for four hundred years just like a vampire does, to always have a long time ahead of us to spend in places like this. It’s so unfair having such a short life… I wish I was an undead creature like Florence is an undead city… (suspiros)

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      February 9, 2011 at 3:54 pm

      Cinzia–I agree! Frances

  33. Maria José Fernandes Bento says:
    February 11, 2011 at 7:59 am

    Ola,senhora Mayes, sou sua admirador
    Maria José
    Ibitiuva
    Sã0 Paulo
    Brasil

    Reply
  34. Maria José Fernandes Bento says:
    February 11, 2011 at 8:12 am

    Cara senhora Francea Mayes
    Sou uma grande admiradora do seu Trabalho e ja li os livros que tem tradução em portugues. Mais que literatura a senhora mostra um estilo de vida! Parabens e obrigada.
    Maria José
    Ibitiuva
    são Paulo
    Brasil

    Reply
  35. Mary says:
    February 14, 2011 at 3:20 pm

    I’ve read so many of your wonderful books and so many times you’ve mentioned shopping for shoes in Florence. Can we find them here, in the US? You make them sound so tempting!

    Reply
  36. T@www.teacupmoments.com says:
    February 14, 2011 at 3:53 pm

    Dear Ms. Mayes,

    What wonderful photos. And plates, oh those colorful beautiful plates!

    I just wanted to let you know that we had a snow day last week and I made the kale, bean and sausage soup from Everyday in Tuscany. Mostly I was moved by the sentiment you spoke of and the sense of domestic bliss you were able to evoke around that wonderful winter soup your husband made.

    I wish you a lot more those moments. Happy Valentine’s Day!

    Reply
  37. Margaret Mullins says:
    February 16, 2011 at 1:59 pm

    Ciao, Frances,
    Am enjoying Palladian Days so much (A Valentine’s present along with A Perfect House and “Your Villa or Mine”- nail polish) from my dear daughter who accompanied me on that wonderful trip to Fruili and Venice and understands my fascination with this part of Italy.
    The Palladian churches you mentioned have been added to my list of must- see places next time I visit Venice- along with the islands in the lagoon esp. Torcella with its ancient basilica and Burano’s colorful houses,( Have you visited there?) and Campo Barnaba(where Katherine Hepburn fell into the canal, making the the 1955 movie “Summertime”) Have you ever seen this old classic? Started my love of Venice many years ago.
    I agree with you that location is so important when choosing a place to stay in Venice or anywhere. Most of the time I have traveled to Europe has been with groups and have had to stay in places designated, but one time I
    realized my dream of staying right on the Grand Canal in Venice at a little hotel close to the Rialto Bridge- the Marconi. What a difference!
    Being able to walk everywhere made up for lack of some ammenities-no elevators or bellmen. Did have a great breakfast and nice if not fancy rooms.Are you familiar with it? Please keep mentioning where you stay and eat. I loved the photos and descriptions of Venice and Florence in the winter. Thank you for your kind reply to my last writing.
    Best Wishes,
    Margaret

    Reply
  38. Betty Cyrus says:
    February 16, 2011 at 3:19 pm

    Dear Ms. Mayes,
    I only just now finished “Under the Tuscan Sun” and found this site by looking you up online-what luck! I am so grateful for your amazing book (and now I see I must read more) because not only has it been so enjoyable to read, but I have been taking notes. My son is stationed in Livorno and I am coming to visit in May. I am beyond excited! Your prose has made Tuscany so very real to me and I can’t wait to get there. I will only be in Italy from May 19th through June 2, so I know I won’t have time to see as much as I would like. I, too, am a small town girl and I don’t really like cities very much so while we are planning on seeing Rome, of course, and we would like to make it to Venice for at least a day or 2, most of my time will be spent in Tuscany. My son loves Firenza so we will visit there and I’ve told him I want to visit Siena, Montepulciano (I love how I can say that, it sounds so cool), Montalcino (Brunello), Lago Trasimeno and Cortona, and Assisi. Wow, looking at that list makes me think maybe I need to just plan another trip! I look forward to your continued blogs and I will let you know what I think of Italy when I return. If there is anyplace I ABSOLUTELY have to see, please let me know. I am especially interested in the duomos.

    Thank you for your love of Italy and sharing that with the rest of us.

    Reply
  39. Margaret Mullins says:
    February 17, 2011 at 5:58 pm

    Dear Frances,
    I am enjoying Palladian Days and A Perfect House so much (Both were Valentine presents from my daughter who accompanied me on a trip to Venice and Friuli and understands my passion for this area.) My home town Petersburg, VA, has its own Anglo-Palladian villa- Battersea-built in 1768 and a line from A Perfect House rings true “A Palladian house in Virginia or the Carolinas looks at home.” Although on a much smaller scale and adapted to fit Colonial needs, Battersea retains many of the elements of its Venetian predecessors. Thank you for recommending both of these books.
    I agree that one can never have enough time to see everything of beauty and interest in Italy. I have added the Palladian villas and churches to my endless list -in the Veneto alone.
    Keep Writing about these wonderful cities-Venice and Florence
    Ciao,
    Margaret

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      February 21, 2011 at 9:32 pm

      Margaret, hello–Thanks for this info. I am speaking in VA in March and will check out Battersea. Frances

  40. Kimberly says:
    February 19, 2011 at 6:15 pm

    Dear Frances, I am reading your book A Year in the World,in there you go to The Alhambra and buy a cd, Angel Barrios….I am trying to find that cd,I have found he has several. I have orderd the other cd you mentioned from my local library ,I’m hoping you can send the title. I look forward to hearing from you ,I hope also I can find this site again as I use the library…..my e-mail is krenjini@cs.com Tahnk you Kimberly Santos

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      February 21, 2011 at 9:30 pm

      Dear Kimberly, Sorry not to be more helpful but it was just entitled with his name. It was for sale in the Alhambra gift shop. Best, Frances

  41. Gayle says:
    February 20, 2011 at 8:18 pm

    Dear Ms. Mayes,
    Because of women like you, I too will learn to adventure and step out on faith for what seems unreachable…until then I will live vicariously through your writing.

    Alis Volat Propriis
    Gayle

    Reply
  42. blair says:
    February 22, 2011 at 4:09 am

    dear Francis,

    Mi chiamo Blair. Vivo a Perugia. Insegni i rudimentale di scrivere?
    Non posso trovare l’informazione, se si!

    I would love to talk about writing with you, if you care to e-mail, or even meet one day in Italy.
    Distinti saluti,
    B

    Reply
  43. Kátia says:
    February 22, 2011 at 12:20 pm

    Olá Frances,

    Gostaria de dizer que leio todos os seus livros e que amo a Itália, das fotos acima gostei mais dos pratos em porcelana pintados,são realmente lindos. Florença é realmente uma viagem no tempo, ou talvez o tempo tenha parado por lá.Obrigada por inspirar minha vida com a suas obras.
    Kátia Zany

    Reply
  44. Kátia says:
    February 23, 2011 at 1:24 pm

    Cara Frances,

    Você já lançou algum Livro de Decorações de Casa? E de Culinária, estou ansiosa para comprá-los, mas não sei se tem em Português? Até agora só li três livros seus e gostaria muito que você me indicasse. Como estou graduando em Direito, ler seus livros são uma inspiração, um dia quero conhecer Bramasole.
    Aguardo resposta sua.
    Obrigada.

    Kátia Zany
    Amazonas-Brasil

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      February 23, 2011 at 3:20 pm

      Katia–So sorry–I don’t speak Portuguese! Frances

  45. Kátia says:
    February 24, 2011 at 12:28 pm

    Frances Mayes Cara

    Avete introdotto un libro di decorazioni House? E in cucina? Sono ansioso di comprarli, ma non so se è in portoghese? Finora soltanto letto tre dei suoi libri, confesso che mi è piaciuto tutto (Under the Tuscan Sun, Bella Toscana e un anno in tutto il mondo), e saremmo molto grati mi riferiscono. Dal momento che sono la laurea in giurisprudenza, leggendo i loro libri nel tempo libero sono una fonte di ispirazione per me, un giorno voglio sapere Bramasole.
    Aspetto una tua risposta.
    Grazie.

    Katy Zany
    Amazonas, Brasile

    Reply
  46. Michael Williams says:
    February 24, 2011 at 7:41 pm

    Hi Frances!

    My name is Michael Williams. I’ll spare you the long story, but I am from Fitzgerald, Ga (1999-2008), parents still residing there.

    I was on Wikipedia looking up Fitzgerald to gather some facts for my first book writing endeavor, and never noticed the “Notable Residents” section. Looked you up, (saw that you are signed by one of my favorite book publishers!) :) and felt that it would be a blessing and an honor to chat with you regarding Fitzgerald, and writing, and your work!

    I’m not sure if you will have my email address to directly respond to me from this post, but it is michael.wms0216@gmail.com

    I would REALLY love to have the opportunity to speak with you and get to know you and get some advice on writing!

    Thank you and I am looking forward to reading your books!

    Michael W.
    Atlanta, Ga.

    Reply
    • francesmayes says:
      March 1, 2011 at 2:45 pm

      Hi Michael, I was down there in August. Sad to see so many closed stores. And all those chickens running all over the streets!! Kind of spooky!
      When someone asked William Faulkner how he wrote, he answered, “With a pencil.” I don’t know any secrets but did write a practical book about reading and writing poetry, which I think applies to fiction, nonfiction or even a letter home: The Discovery of Poetry. Plenty to write about from your origins!!! all the best, Frances

  47. Web says:
    February 28, 2011 at 3:03 pm

    Ciao, Frances, Am enjoying Palladian Days so much (A Valentine’s present along with A Perfect House and “Your Villa or Mine”- nail polish) from my dear daughter who accompanied me on that wonderful trip to Fruili and Venice and understands my fascination with this part of Italy. The Palladian churches you mentioned have been added to my list of must- see places next time I visit Venice- along with the islands in the lagoon esp. Torcella with its ancient basilica and Burano’s colorful houses,( Have you visited there?) and Campo Barnaba(where Katherine Hepburn fell into the canal, making the the 1955 movie “Summertime”) Have you ever seen this old classic? Started my love of Venice many years ago. I agree with you that location is so important when choosing a place to stay in Venice or anywhere. Most of the time I have traveled to Europe has been with groups and have had to stay in places designated, but one time Irealized my dream of staying right on the Grand Canal in Venice at a little hotel close to the Rialto Bridge- the Marconi. What a difference!Being able to walk everywhere made up for lack of some ammenities-no elevators or bellmen. Did have a great breakfast and nice if not fancy rooms.Are you familiar with it? Please keep mentioning where you stay and eat. I loved the photos and descriptions of Venice and Florence in the winter. Thank you for your kind reply to my last writing.Best Wishes,Margaret
    +1

    Reply

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