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Posts Tagged ‘Borgo di Vagli’

The Tuscan Sun Cookbook

October 12th, 2011

Ed and I are so looking forward to the publication of our cookbook–a collection of our favorite recipes from twenty-one years of feasting in Italy.  He, my daughter, and I all say: at last we won’t have to search for a particular recipe again.  Having the recipes bound in one place will save us hours of looking through folders and emails and torn pieces of paper stuck in other books.  The book has gone to press and will be published in mid-March. I’m already looking forward to the book tour, much of which will take place in restaurants around the country, with chefs preparing the recipes. Sounds like so much fun! Steven Rothfeld, the photographer, and I did almost all our own styling and preparation. My friend Kim Sunee, who wrote Trail of Crumbs, came over to Tuscany twice to lend her expertise.  Steven and I work incredibly well together. All the photographs were taken here in Italy, almost all of them at my indoor and outdoor tables. My friends Susan and Frances Gravely, who own Vietri ceramics in my adopted NC town of Hillsborough, arranged for us to have several sets of their evocative Tuscan ceramics, to complement the dishes I had. (With 150 photos you run through lots of dishes.)  So we were lucky with all this talent and help. I must say, I’ve never seen more fabulous food photos, thanks to Steven’s meticulous eye, a shared vision, and a great appetite among all of us. The shots are all natural.  No strange interference to make the food look better. We devoured it all when the shot was done! Here’s the cover of the book:

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These are our close friends. Ed and I are at the ends, Silvia Regi and Riccardo Baracchi are in the foreground (with their Astore and Ardito wine on the table). They started Il Falconiere, a sybaritic inn and restaurant in Cortona about the same time that we bought Bramasole so we have kind of grown up together.  Fulvio Di Rosa, in turquoise shirt, is a master restorer of old houses in Tuscany, including our mountain house and Borgo di Vagli.  Cecelia Cascella is our vivacious friend who’s the mother of three gorgeous (how could they not be?) children. We’re at the end of a three hour lunch. Steven is out of the picture but had an honored place at the table. This project has been a true labor of love. Clarkson Potter, a division of Random House, is the publisher.

Tomorrow we go to Rome for five days. We will have the intense pleasure of showing our nine-year-old grandson the ancient city.  He has a book with over-lays showing the city as it is now, and as it was.  We’ve rented an apartment near the Pantheon so we can walk to all the historic sites.  My daughter and her husband are arriving, too, and, when we come back to Cortona next week, Ed’s sister, her husband, and four friends converge here for the olive harvest.  Marvelous season.  This fall’s weather has been the most sublime in memory. Hope it holds while we’re up on ladders in the olive grove. The next post, without doubt, will be a report on the taste of the new oil.  Grassy? Almond? Peppery? The crop is small, due to the hailstorm that I wrote about in summer.  The delicate flowers were knocked off. But we’ll pick what’s there, picnic in the grove, and of course will be grilling a lot of bruschetta for tasting the fresh oil. By the time we finish the harvest, the hill we see from our kitchen at the mountain house will look like this and the season of fall feasts will be upon us!

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Before Winter Leaves

March 9th, 2011

Here’s an eloquent photo of the pleasures of winter travel.  This is the security line at the Rome airport at the end of January:

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I’ve never taken a picture in an airport but this was a sublime scene.  Maybe not as sublime as the view from our mountain house the day before.  The two peaks in the distance are extinct volcanos, floating above a sea of fog in the valley. The landscapes of winter are just as evocative, for me, as the lush greens and sunflower fields of summer. The hill in the foreground is where Bramasole sits, on the left, and the lower slope to the right is Cortona. In summer that lavender-lined walkway is swarming with butterflies and bees; I hope it survived the February cold. The pergola is covered with white wisteria and white roses in early summer.  After five years, they’ve finally covered the structure, creating a nice spot for lunch.

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Another pleasure of winter is bagna cauda, a hot sauce of seasoned olive oil–the freshest possible–with garlic and a few anchovies in it.  It’s especially lovely in winter because it reminds you of all the crispy, fresh vegetables that soon will be arriving. This feast took place at our friends, the Di Rosa’s splendid table.  I’ve written about Fulvio and Aurora in my books.  He is a master restorer in Tuscany  (www.borgodivagli.com ). This was followed by a big pasta. You can’t see it in the picture but the brown containers have a candle within for keeping the oil warm.

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Peppers, celery, carrots, cardoon, radishes, endive, fennel, escarole, lightly steamed sunchokes, broccoli, onions, potatoes and artichokes–any vegetable deserves a dip in a warm bath.

Below, Fulvio is about to light la grolla. A carved wooden container that holds grappa, coffee, and orange peel. The rim is sugared.  When it has burned, it’s passed from guest to guest, sort of a version of the peace pipe.  The Di Rosas are originally from Turin and keep the tradition of la grolla. They have given us one and we now can pass the peace pipe on winter nights.

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On our last night before flying out, we ate at Pierluigi in Rome.  In warm months, you dine outside in a small and noble piazza.  In winter, we sat inside and ordered a Tercic Matijaz Collio sauvignon blanc to remind us of our trip to Friuli, and then grilled fish, and the purest of salads, arugula mixed with it’s wild cousin, rughetta:

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At dessert, I was thrilled to see cenci, meaning “rags,” those light, fried pastries that appear only around mardi gras.  The dough is cut in rectangles, split at one end and the other end looped through.  In hot oil they puff slightly.  They are light, crunchy, and delicious!

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Did we eat most of those?  Did we?

I’m still basking in the memories of our winter trip.  And starting to look toward returning in May. For now, the book tour starts today.  I’ll post the recipe for cenci as soon as I test it with American flour.  This weekend, we spring forward into longer days!

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“Under another Tuscan Sun”

June 11th, 2010

11 June, Wall Street Journal link: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703561604575282892054989772.html?KEYWORDS=mayes

I admire Kate Bolick’s articles and am happy that she chose to write about our mountain house, and also about my good friend Fulvio Di Rosa’s project, the renovation of a medieval borgo in the mountains near Cortona. Included are slide shows of our house and Borgo di Vagli.

Another Italian jaunt of Kate’s: -Back to the Futurists: Italy’s First Avant-Garde Turns 100 [it's a 5-part series in Slate, so you have to click on each "day"]

http://www.slate.com/id/2221458/entry/2221459/

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Frances's Links:

The Tuscan Sun

Festival del Sole

Tuscan Sun Festival

Travel Dynamics International

Laneventure

Wildwood Lamps

Drexel Heritage

www.broadwaybooks.com

www.therecipeclub.net

www.crownpublishing.com

Steven Barclay Agency

Curtis Brown


Sites to See:

Tuesday Recipe

Steven Rothfeld

Bob Krist

Images by Al Hurley

2or3things.blogspot.com

Good Bones Great Pieces

Kim Sunee

Chef Robin White

Cannelle et Vanille

Borgo di Vagli

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