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Posts Tagged ‘olives’

Blissful September

September 22nd, 2010

Cortona is hopping with people right now and they are wise–this is the month most likely to woo you with soft, golden light, balmy days, and big sunsets. I can’t stay inside. I’m walking into town in the mornings, gardening in the afternoon and leaving open every door and window in the house.  The roses have agreed to give us an encore, the figs challenge me to come up with new ways to use them, olives are plumping up, and wild heather blooms on the roadside.  Our orto gives forth the last tomatoes and zucchini and slender eggplants that dangle like earrings from the plant.  There’s nothing to do with a primo tomato but slice and eat.

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We’re turning out hearty pastas from the kitchen now: Pasta al Forno with Four Cheeses and Sausage (page  122 in Every Day in Tuscany) keeps getting better every time we reheat it.  Last night I made roasted red peppers baked with a filling of ricotta and herbs, an old friend from Under the Tuscan Sun. Every day we are retesting recipes from my books and trying out new ones from friends and chefs.  What a pleasure this cookbook project is.  Our neighbors have invited us tonight to try their guanciale, beef cheeks that are meltingly tender.  We’re happily taking over an eggplant parmigiana, since it lets use five eggplants.  (Six to go!)  We’re also taking a simple savory tart that my neighbor often makes and passed on to me. Line a pie dish with unsweetened pastry.  Sauté a thinly sliced onion in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil for three or four minutes, add two or three zucchini, also sliced, and sauté another minute or so.  Place the onions and zucchini in the pie pan.  Beat three eggs with 1/2 cup of parmigiano and salt and pepper.  Pour this over the vegetables.  Thinly slice a red pepper and arrange in a spoke pattern.  Press them into the eggs a little.  Bake at 35o degrees for thirty minutes.  How can something so simple be so good?

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This mellow season also is great for reading, contemplating, walking the Roman roads. I just read and liked The Quickening Maze by Adam Foulds, Tinkers by Paul Harding, and now am into Penelope Lively’s Family Album.  Two more weeks here to savor the tastes, landscapes, friendships, and surprises, such as the yellow crocuses that volunteered for service among the lavender under a stone wall.

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Mediterranean Chicken with Green Olives

January 6th, 2010

Mediterranean Chicken with Green Olives

In my zeal to bring order at the beginning of the year, I’m sifting through folders of old recipes. I spotted one and thought I can do something with this.  Where it came from I don’t know.  It might have been from Simone Beck’s cooking school, which I attended in the south of France, back in the dim past when Julia Child had a house on Simca’s property.  From the old Selectric typeface, it has to be at least twenty-five years old.  What a long delay in recognizing the merits of this flavorful, exotic dish. The Moorish spices makes the recipe read Sicily, Andalusia or some other sun-washed spot.  I adapted it right and left because some of steps made little sense.

It’s great fun to make—rummaging for all the spices–and looks like it came from a kitchen adjacent to an olive grove.  Weirdest aspect—the chicken is cooked in highly seasoned water!  Next time I make it, I might brown the chicken pieces, just for looks.  But check it out—not bad for a random Monday night.  Also, great for a more svelte silhouette. The size pot depends on the sizes of the chicken pieces—a single layer is best. I didn’t serve it with cous-cous (see svelte silhouette) but imagined it with the lemony sauce and almonds.

Mediterranean Chicken with Olives

Serves 4-6

4 to 6 bone-in chicken breasts (I had 4 huge ones on hand but prefer smaller pieces. You could use one chicken, cut in pieces.)

2 ½ cups of water (or to cover)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon each: black pepper, ground ginger, salt

½ teaspoon each: paprika, cumin, tumeric

A few threads of saffron

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 onion, chopped

½ cup lemon juice

2 cups big green pitted olives, sliced

½ cup whole almonds

1 cup chopped parsley

zest of the lemons

Place the chicken in a stove-top pot or casserole with a cover. Pour the water over and add all the spices, the garlic and onion. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer until done, which for the big breasts was about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, toast almonds with some coarse salt in a skillet.

Remove chicken to an oven dish.  Boil down the sauce until it thickens. Add lemon juice and most of the olives, parsley and zest. Heat through, pour sauce over the chicken and garnish with remaining parsley, olives, zest and the almonds.

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Olives, Roses

December 23rd, 2009

Olives.  Because we have 500 olive trees on our land in Tuscany, I’ll be writing a lot about that magical elixir we press from our groves every October.  Although in Tuscany, almost all olives are used for oil, they’re still essential to Tuscan cooking. With drinks, rather than just piling them in a bowl, it’s nice to bake them with some citrus peel, roasted garlic and a douse of good olive oil.

Baked olives

Baked olives

It’s as much fun to set the table as it is to cook. I like to match the decor in spirit to the food that will be forthcoming. Usually, I favor simple and surprising table decorations, with nothing to block the conversation. Here are two Christmas tables.  The red rose one was at my house, the other at Busatti in Anghiari, Tuscany. www.busatti.com

Roses after dinner

Roses after dinner

Display at Busatti

Display at Busatti

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Frances's Links:

The Tuscan Sun

Festival del Sole

Tuscan Sun Festival

Travel Dynamics International

Laneventure

Wildwood Lamps

Drexel Heritage

www.broadwaybooks.com

www.therecipeclub.net

www.crownpublishing.com

Steven Barclay Agency

Curtis Brown


Sites to See:

Tuesday Recipe

Steven Rothfeld

Bob Krist

Images by Al Hurley

2or3things.blogspot.com

Good Bones Great Pieces

Kim Sunee

Chef Robin White

Cannelle et Vanille

Borgo di Vagli

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